FT How to Spend It: White rider

Apologies for the dodgy quality of images; have time enough to take photos and not scan. Besides, don't you think that the semi-sepia quality the light gives this editorial enhances period feel? I don't know why, but I get the vibe of the depressing 30s. Is it the bikes?


Theo wears embroidered evening Dylan jacket by Gucci; jeans by Kilgour; t-shirt (just seen) by Homino Emerito by Mango; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten; leather belt and leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Madeleine wears linen Metador Bolero with ruffles on the back and silk Cuff trousers, both by Phillip Lim; silk top by Roberto Cavalli; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel; leather brogues by Church's

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson, Styling by Damian Foxe

Extremes have always appealed to me: from all black to all white, even all beige and gray. There's just an unavoidably dashing air to the neutral monochrome.


Wiktor (left) wears Jacquard cotton Dylan jacket, Jacquard cotton Havana trousers, and white leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle: all by Gucci; cotton shirt by Thomas Pink; leather snake-effect ankle boots by Paul Smith. Hampus wears Jacquard cotton evening Dylan jacket and Jacquard evening Havana trousers, both by Gucci; leather loafers by J by J Jasper Conran from Debenhams

And did I mention how I just adore the hairstyles and the hint of androgyny? I wonder if all the models are blondes, or have they been bleached?

Madeleine wears cotton Catrin shirt by Thomas Pink; cotton trousers by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

The tailoring is of course impeccable. After white pants, I certainly intend to wear white jackets and blazers.


Wiktor (leftmost) wears cashmere blazer from Brioni; jeans by Kilgour; cotton shirt by Versace; leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Hampus (centre) wears cotton and cashmere three-piece suit by Ermenegildo Zegna; knitted silk scarf by Kilgour; leather Nobel brogues by Grenson from Matches. Theo wears cotton and cashmere suit and cotton and silk blend shirt, both by Ermenegildo Zegna; leather shoes by Camper

Can it just be the romance of the Old World, of past eras?

Madeleine wears cotton organza blouse with jabot by Gianfranco Ferré; cotton trousers (just seen) by Paul Smith

Or the glamour of previous decades translated for the present one?

Theo wears cotton jacket, cotton trousers, white and navy jersey (just seen), and suede shoes: all by Bottega Veneta; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten

It's amazing how men's shoes like brogues work so well when appropriated by womenswear.

Madeleine wear cotton sweater by John Smedley; silk trousers by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton embroidered cravat by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

Theo (left) wears silk suit jacket, matching trousers, and silk sweater: all by Dolce & Gabbana. Wiktor wears silk suit jacket and silk suit trousers, both by Dolce & Gabbana; silk and cotton Joery sweater by Dries Van Noten; leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle by Gucci

Silk, jacquard, jersey, cashmere, leather, mohair, hemp, satin, suede: they're all here in one wonderful mix. How can you not love the power of monochrome to bring them all together?


Hampus (far left) wears mohair and wool jacket and cashmere waistcoat, both by Kilgour; ribbed cotton long-sleeve t-shirt and hemp trousers, both by Ann Demeulemeester; leather shoes by Giorgio Armani. Madeleine wears viscose vest by Burberry; satin trousers by Chanel; silks carf (around hips) by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's. Wiktor wears cotton jacket, hemp waistcoat, and cotton trousers: all by Ann Demeulemeester; cotton sweater by John Smedley; leather and suede trainers by Tim Little

Hampus wears cotton suit by Emporio Armani; cotton-mix Jartha cardigan by Dries Van Noten; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel

Only thing is, of course, I don't think you can ride your bike on any street wearing these outifts if you want to keep your single-colored ensemble until you get home.


Madeleine wears silk shantung waistcoat by Stella McCartney; silk crepe trousers by Maria Grachvogel; silk scarf scarf by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's

Rips and pleats

So I woke up yesterday morning wanting to wear something shiny. I hadn't used this American Boulevard shirt for quite some time so I decided to fish it out. Only problem was it had always been a little too long, so I decided, with brave finality, to shorten the hem myself. With nothing but scissors.

Shirt, American Boulevard; ripped jeans, Neil Barrett; thrifted belt; stainless steel abacus necklace, from 168; white leather sneakers (not seen), Converse; briefcase (below), Tyler

Of course I was hoping that the rough edges would also give it a raw feel, but after finishing with the act, that became the least of my problems. The shirt was this time too short! I was near to running late for work, so, with another spur of the moment decision, I sent for a few safety pins.

The damage control looked like this. I need stitching along the upper hem, but I have to decide exactly how to re-attach the part I cut to give that layered effect. More safety pins, studs, gimlets...do you have any ideas? Do you think I should repeat the process for the sleeves?

Whatever I do, I want to retain the raw effect. I think this accident promises a good first DIY project.

As the excitement of the day wore off, I traded my ripped shirt for this pleated one and changed sneakers for an adidas event.

Tuxedo shirt, Zara; ripped jeans, Neil Barrett; thrifted sneakers, Gucci; watch, Omega Seamaster

Outdoor photos by Patricia Suzara

AnOther Man: Untitled editorial in red

The idea of wearing bandages as tops isn't knew. Pieces by Raf Simons in this shoot may have in fact been influenced by old artisanal articles by Martin Margiela. Coincidentally, new clothes by the Belgian designer appear alongside the "new" bandage tops by Simons. I take it as homage.


Rubber bandage (worn as top), Expectations
Untitled editorial from AnOther Man 7, Autumn/Winter 2008
Photography by Mark Segal, Styling by Alister Mackie

I think it's no coincidence that the archive-inspired bandage tops appear in the same editorial as these vintage cropped shirts by Vivienne Westwood, which are very 80s. The reference, of course, is Britain during that era and the Sex Pistol's Johnny Rotten.


Patterned jacket and tartan trousers, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus; lycra t-shirt, vintage Sex by Vivienne Westwood from Rellik; patent leather high tops by Reebok by Juun J

How else can Portobello and Rick Owens mix?

Military cap and reversible tartan jacket, Portobello market; long sleeve fine jersey t-shirts, Rick Owens; torn t-shirt, Wasteland; high waisted trousers, Yohji Yamamoto

Rubber bodysuit, Expectations; padlock pendant necklace and bracelet, TEM; Dead End pendant necklace, Atelier 11; high waisted trousers, Yohji Yamamoto; leather belt, Julius

Even the check shirts are cropped. Red tartans look good with other patterns in black. Again, as in a past editorial I posted, this outfit will not be as effective if the model weren't blond.


Three button fitted jacket and silk pocket square, Yves Saint Laurent; checked shirt, Angels; trousers, Gucci



And as precocious looking.

Oversized mohair tank top and jersey shorts, Rick Owens; rubber collar, Expectations

With that sensual defiance in his eyes.

Leather biker jacket archive, Jitrois; checked shirt, Diesel; torn t-shirt, Wasteland; Dead End pin, Atelier 11; padlock chain and safety pin necklaces, TEM

And yes! Red pants. I don't know if I will dare, but just look at these pairs!


Brick print jacket, Maison Martin Margiels; bandage top and collar, Raf Simons; bullet pendant necklace, TEM; trousers, Prada

Knotted rubber waistcoat, Maison Martin Margiela; trousers, Jil Sander; silver ring, Atelier 11

Nothing really as blatant as that color. You will need all the patterns at hand, and especially the color black, to tame it.


Lycra t-shirt, vintage Sex by Vivienne Westwood from Rellik; trousers, Filippa K; patterened silk scarves, Gucci; bandanas, Rokit

Tartan tuxedo jacket, Vivienne Westwood Man; tartan shirt, Wasteland; padlock chain, TEM; marbled trousers, Jil Sander

And this, this is just bloody fabulous.

Bandage top and saftey pin brooch, Raf Simons

L'Uomo Vogue: Histoire blanche

More than a sentimental trip back to the baroque, this editorial is an ode to the genius of Hedi Slimane, and to the uncanny mix of his vision with the tradition of the house of Dior.

White and black tuxedos profilati, Dolce & Gabbana; jabot shirts, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting; sciarpa e shoes, Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane; ring, Jelena Behrend Studio

From L'Uomo Vogue, January 2006

It also shows how a little research and resourcefulness by a stylist can peel of the paint of centuries.

Ivory cotton suit, Prada; gilet e camicia con pizzi, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting; sciarpa, Ellen Christine Millinery

Frock-coat, tuxedo pants, camicia blanca, suspenders e scarpe, white vest, skinny pants, canotta nera e smoking shoes: tutto Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane

Ruffled shirt e pants, Dries Van Noten; vest bianco e pantaloni: tutto Paul Smith; gilet e camicia con ruches, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting; tutte le calze del servizio sono, Wolford

Ivory tuxedo, camicia bianca ruches: tutto Roberto Cavalli

Black suit, Miu Miu; gilet bianco, sciarpa e babbucce de vernice: tutto Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane; robe de chambre e pantaloni, Gucci: collarless shirt, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting

Photos by Max Vadukul
Fashion editor, Nicoletta Santoro

L'Uomo Vogue

I had written about Vogue Italia before, featuring their covers from various decades and also praising both the editorial vision and the personal style of its editor, Franca Sozzani, but I had never realized that its men's counterpart, L'Uomo Vogue, was such a breathtaking magazine.

Folie Bizzare, from L'Uomo Vogue January 2006

Camicia bianca di fiandra, B>More; striped pants, Givenchy; lace scarf, Southpaw; stivali da motociclista, Odds; collana, Kt. PER LEI: Ivory frac jacket, Jean Paul Gaultier; jeans, As Four



Camicia di denim con plastron, Neil Barrett; painted jeans, Polo Ralph Lauren; navy cord, Fenton USA; foulard in vita, Southpaw; pointed boots, Destroy @ Trash and Vaudeville. PER LEI: Pants di pelle e stivali, Daryl K



From the few issues that I have, I was awed by the way it captured past and present eras (in this case, projecting a future one) with the decadence of emotion, but practicing enough restraint to render its images possible, near to wearable.



DA SINISTRA: Camicia bianca e silk pullover, Gucci; shiny golden linen pants, Dolce & Gabbana; cappello, Marc Jacobs; black boots, Destroy @ Trash & Vaudeville; collane d'oro, Fenton USA e Alyssa Norton. PER LEI: Pants di pelle, Alexander McQueen; stivali, Jean Paul Gaultier; sciarpa di seta, Southpaw; catena con piume, Fenton USA. Gold metallic blazer, Dolce & Gabbana; white tuxedo shirt, Jean Paul Gaultier; brown leather pants, John Galliano; cintura bicolore, Roberto Cavalli; stivali, Odds



L'Uomo Vogue presents a man who is intense and at the same time aloof. In spite of his style jests, he is ultimately simple and grounded, confident of who he is.



DA SINISTRA: Camicia con ruches e pantaloni da smoking argento e nero, Roberto Cavalli; jacket, John Richmond; stivali, Cloak. PER LEI: Black cape, Vintage Loft; pantaloni, VPL. Military blazer, Carlo Pignatelli Outside; camicia bianca con plastron, Neil Barrett; pantaloni neri, John Richmond; cintura di pelle con fibbia gioiello, Roberto Cavalli. Blazer beige e pants, tutto Emporio Armani; band jacket, Odds



Upon reading (actually just looking at!) this magazine, I am more and more convinced of the viability of fashion photography as a visual art. L'Uomo Vogue raises images to the level of intimate moments - even portraits.

This editorial is only my first post on this fantastic find. Can't wait to share the rest!

Photography by Tom Munro
Fashion editor: Victoria Bartlett

Denim, tux, white tie, and Chucks

Well, not exactly. I got these embroidered, white leather Gucci sneakers from a thrift shop, which has recently moved to another location. (More on this soon.)

I wore them this morning, but changed the rest of my outfit for a little shoot this evening. Instead of tying the laces this way, I eased them from the top loops and tied the extra length round the shoes, as is now the fashion.

I wasn't really planning anything, but when I was fiddling around with my white cotton bow tie (no ready hooks!) while playing and rewinding YouTube clips on how to tie the impossible little things, somehow, I got it. (I bought the tie for a black-tie Vogue event, but I wasn't able to use it. I opted for a red, silk Gucci scarf instead.)

Since I was already wearing the tie over a short-sleeved blue and white polo shirt, I decided to try out a denim on denim combination. I put on this thrifted Gerani denim jacket, which was too loose, so I used a safety pin to fasten it, as what (I think) the stylist for the Fall 2009 show of Dries Van Noten did.

On hindsight, the jeans could have been darker and I could have worn black leather lace-ups or leather sneakers, but I think the top part of the outfit has it.

The jeans are good enough for this tuxedo coat I bought from a department store (it's actually priced almost the same as the cotton tie).

Better I think, if the shirt had a printed design similar to the Rorschach imprint left by the heat. No belt.

As an afterthought, and in line with my post on denim and layering, I put on the denim jacket on top of the tux coat.

Works well I think. Better even if my shirt had long sleeves so I could have rolled it under the coat. This time, black lace-ups would have been required, and maybe also a thin black leather belt. The jacket I'm now thinking I should alter for a slimmer fit.

Back to reality now and to the humidity returning this time of the year to Manila.

Night photos by Patricia Suzara

Numéro Homme: Performance

Leggings are for dancing, and so are skirts, as long as they are paired with them. What other way to say this than by the modern version of stop motion photography?

'Performance' from Numéro Homme 17 Printemps-été 2009
Par Victor Callens par Jean-Baptiste Mondino, Réalisation: Serge Girardi

I must say that, along with Hedi Slimane's photos of skaters wearing his Dior Homme creations, these are the most convincing images I have seen of men wearing skirts. Movement, it's all about movement.

Débardeur en maille jacquard, Gaultier2; kilt en toile laquée, John Galliano; jean imprimé, Roberto Cavalli; sneakers, Lanvin; ceinture en cuir, The Viridi-Anne

Short, Nike; pull en maille de coton, Gucci

And color, which this editorial so spiritedly splashes around with: like spring and summer after an overly oppressive winter. Who says man skirts have to be black and gothic?

Pull à emmanchures raglan en maille rigide, Calvin Klein Collection; bermuda plissé en coton; Comme de Garçons Homme Plus; jean, Dior Homme; sneakers, Martin Margiela

Something you can't do with bermuda shorts.

If summer has to deal with the color black, it will have to be in patterns. More than one, even more than two. Let the combinations be dizzying. Let them move!

T-shirt imprimé, Comme de Garçons Homme Plus; bermuda en acétate imprimé, Emporio Armani; leggings, Nike; sneakers, Dior Homme

T-shirts imprimé, Edition limitee Stephen Sprouse pour Louis Vuitton

Let colors and patterns scintillate together.

T-shirt à ceinture élastiquée en jersey de coton, Dior Homme; sarouel en jersey de coton imprimé, John Galliano; leggings en velours éponge, Vivienne Westwood Man; sneakers, Nike

Stars that glow in the dark.

Let your step be light.

T-shirt en jersey de coton imprimé, Jean Paul Gaultier; short vintage customisé, Z Zegna; leggings, American Apparel; sneakers, Edition limite Stephen Sprouse pour Louis Vuitton

Take the disco with you in your every stride.

(Don't you think only dancers can give justice to these mirror leggings?)

T-shirt oversize en jersey de lin imprimé, John Galliano; leggings miroir, Maison Martin Margiela; sneakers, Dior Homme