FT How to Spend It: White rider

Apologies for the dodgy quality of images; have time enough to take photos and not scan. Besides, don't you think that the semi-sepia quality the light gives this editorial enhances period feel? I don't know why, but I get the vibe of the depressing 30s. Is it the bikes?


Theo wears embroidered evening Dylan jacket by Gucci; jeans by Kilgour; t-shirt (just seen) by Homino Emerito by Mango; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten; leather belt and leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Madeleine wears linen Metador Bolero with ruffles on the back and silk Cuff trousers, both by Phillip Lim; silk top by Roberto Cavalli; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel; leather brogues by Church's

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson, Styling by Damian Foxe

Extremes have always appealed to me: from all black to all white, even all beige and gray. There's just an unavoidably dashing air to the neutral monochrome.


Wiktor (left) wears Jacquard cotton Dylan jacket, Jacquard cotton Havana trousers, and white leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle: all by Gucci; cotton shirt by Thomas Pink; leather snake-effect ankle boots by Paul Smith. Hampus wears Jacquard cotton evening Dylan jacket and Jacquard evening Havana trousers, both by Gucci; leather loafers by J by J Jasper Conran from Debenhams

And did I mention how I just adore the hairstyles and the hint of androgyny? I wonder if all the models are blondes, or have they been bleached?

Madeleine wears cotton Catrin shirt by Thomas Pink; cotton trousers by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

The tailoring is of course impeccable. After white pants, I certainly intend to wear white jackets and blazers.


Wiktor (leftmost) wears cashmere blazer from Brioni; jeans by Kilgour; cotton shirt by Versace; leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Hampus (centre) wears cotton and cashmere three-piece suit by Ermenegildo Zegna; knitted silk scarf by Kilgour; leather Nobel brogues by Grenson from Matches. Theo wears cotton and cashmere suit and cotton and silk blend shirt, both by Ermenegildo Zegna; leather shoes by Camper

Can it just be the romance of the Old World, of past eras?

Madeleine wears cotton organza blouse with jabot by Gianfranco Ferré; cotton trousers (just seen) by Paul Smith

Or the glamour of previous decades translated for the present one?

Theo wears cotton jacket, cotton trousers, white and navy jersey (just seen), and suede shoes: all by Bottega Veneta; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten

It's amazing how men's shoes like brogues work so well when appropriated by womenswear.

Madeleine wear cotton sweater by John Smedley; silk trousers by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton embroidered cravat by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

Theo (left) wears silk suit jacket, matching trousers, and silk sweater: all by Dolce & Gabbana. Wiktor wears silk suit jacket and silk suit trousers, both by Dolce & Gabbana; silk and cotton Joery sweater by Dries Van Noten; leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle by Gucci

Silk, jacquard, jersey, cashmere, leather, mohair, hemp, satin, suede: they're all here in one wonderful mix. How can you not love the power of monochrome to bring them all together?


Hampus (far left) wears mohair and wool jacket and cashmere waistcoat, both by Kilgour; ribbed cotton long-sleeve t-shirt and hemp trousers, both by Ann Demeulemeester; leather shoes by Giorgio Armani. Madeleine wears viscose vest by Burberry; satin trousers by Chanel; silks carf (around hips) by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's. Wiktor wears cotton jacket, hemp waistcoat, and cotton trousers: all by Ann Demeulemeester; cotton sweater by John Smedley; leather and suede trainers by Tim Little

Hampus wears cotton suit by Emporio Armani; cotton-mix Jartha cardigan by Dries Van Noten; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel

Only thing is, of course, I don't think you can ride your bike on any street wearing these outifts if you want to keep your single-colored ensemble until you get home.


Madeleine wears silk shantung waistcoat by Stella McCartney; silk crepe trousers by Maria Grachvogel; silk scarf scarf by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's

Mustard yellow jeans

I need a hat. I think the Paul Smith cap below would top this outfit quite nicely. A watch with a brown leather strap, perhaps?

Embroidered tee, Zara; nylon jacket, Izzue; thrifted painter's pants; Conbipel; thrifted sneakers, 5cm; thrifted leather bag, Rabeanco



I've never really devoted much time to hat hunting. I think I should. There are so many varieties - from trilbies to bowlers and newspaper boys to straw panamas - and I think it would be exciting to pair them off with unexpected outfits, either to make a casual look sharper or a relaxed one spiffier. Because of their provenance, different hats can also invoke different eras, and the mood of an entire ensemble. So there are plenty of things to try out.

Including other combinations with my mustard yellow jeans. White, beige, gray, and black tops are the obvious choices. Maybe I'll muster an outfit with a mauve/purple tee, as below. Will just have to find color counterpoints. Black and white check suspenders?

WestEast: Luminous alloys

As an introduction to two colorful editorials from this spring's issue of Numéro Homme, here is an editorial from way back in 2003 from Hong Kong-based WestEast magazine, for which I have been a regular contributor.

Gold lama jacket, Robero Cavalli; mustard yellow trousers, Kenzo; luminous yellow sports jacket, Frankie Morello; mauve tank top, Louis Vuitton; gold leather belt, Dior Homme; white gold and diamond pendant, Cartier

From 'Luminous alloys', WestEast Magazine Spring 2003

I have mustard yellow jeans and have always found them challenging to wear, especially since the climate here doesn't allow the same layering as these outfits.

Orange t-shirt, Paul Smith; silver sleeveless puffer, Prada Sport; gold lame suit, Roberto Cavalli; orange jacket, Jil Sander; turquoise silk scarf, Kenzo; metallic striped scarf, Burberry; vintage orange glasses; Harvve Benard from a selection at Cutler and Gross

Six years after and bright colors - flourescents, neons, and hot tints - still find their way into collections and shoots, and are still put together with metallics. Let's see how I'll wear my yellow jeans this time around.

Electric blue silk suit (trousers worn underneath), Dior Homme; pink and black pin stripe trousers; Etro; baseball boots, Louis Vuitton; leather belt; Dior Homme; pink t-shirt, Paul Smith; vintage sunglasse from a selection at Cutler and Gross

Photography by Eric Maillet, Fashion Editor: Georgina Hodson

Blue, yellow, and a dash of bravery

I've never tried the color combination before, but I was feeling cheerful and positive this morning, and open to some experimentation.

The anchor of this outfit is a dark navy belt with gold sequins — bought at the women's section of Mexx, but what the heck.




Here is the tie up close, with black, gray, and blue stripes. It's a little wide, but I think it works.




Here are the tie and the belt coiled and ready to strike.




And here is my entire outfit, with my lovely espadrilles, of which rubber soles are fast weathering.

My friends said that my torso was top heavy and that my shirt had to be of a lighter fabric so it won't bunch under my sheer cardigan. What do you think? Also, should the belt show or be hidden?




Suddenly I am thinking of just showing the belt at the back and not the front. All in all, I think today's little experiment wasn't a total loss. Today is one of the few days I have worn my espadrilles without rain making them squishy.


Shirt, Paul Smith; sheer Zara cardigan and Di Bazzato tie: both thrifted; skinny jeans, Two Percent; belt, Mexx; espadrilles from Davao

Outfit photos by Patricia Suzara

FT How to Spend It: The Merchant Prints

Jacquard and tapestry jacket, silk and wool scarf, and knitted silk cardigan: all by Gucci; trousers, Lanvin

Though I am all for wearing prints and even floral in fall and winter, one must admit they only bloom on spring. Tapestry! Now that has yet to enter my menswear vocabulary; the pattern on the jacket reminds me of Latin American motifs.


Cotton Pourpe Gladiola jacket, matching trousers, cotton jersey t-shirt, and calf leather Pourpe belt: all by Bottega Venetta; hand-embroidered cashmere scarf, Baba Art Emporium

Quite different to see these Bottega Veneta prints under the sun.


Cotton shirt and painted felt trilby: both by Alexander McQueen; silk scarf, Baba Art Emporium

This Alexander McQueen shirt also takes on a totally different context worn casually and with a scarf.


Cotton reindeer-print shirt, Dunhill; cashmere scarf and jodhpur trousers, Baba Art Emporium; straw hat, Paul Smith


Crumpled silk jacket, matching cotton t-shirt, flocked cotton trousers: all by Emporio Armani; leather and macrame sandals, Lanvin

I want the silk jacket, but the flocked trousers look exquisite — especially since the design is not always obvious.


Silk twill shirt, silk twill Carré scarf, woven cotton and leather Acores belt, and leather Syphnos sandals: all by Hermès; cotton shorts, Emporio Armani; antique loom-made throw, Baba Art Emporium

Will you wear a throw as a scarf?


Cotton shirt, cotton string vest, and paper hat: all by Paul Smith; wool trousers, Dunhill; distressed leather boots, Alexander McQueen

I like the silhouette, even if it is old and a bit tired. This picture makes it worth reminiscing about.

Photographs, Yval Hen, Styling Damian Foxe
FT How to Spend It

Through the flood

I hate it when heavy rains flood the city, but do not at all mind wading through water – given that they reach no further than the shore.


Trench di cotone, Stefanel; camicia di cotone e pantaloni a sigaretta con tasche a filo, CP Company; boots stringati di pelle invecchiata, Diesel

'L'Irlanda'
From Velvet March 2009
Photogaphy by Perry Ogden, Styling by Nik Piras
Model: Julien Sabaud @ D'Man
Scanned by MartiX from Model Hommes

I love the feel of this editorial: the beach, windy meadows, and perhaps, sentimental music.


Completo di colone gessato con giaccia monopetto e pantaloni con doppa plissettatura, t-shirt di sets girocollo: tutto Lanvin

The boots keep the outfits rugged – jackets, trenches, bowlers, and all.


Trench di tessuto tecnico, camicia di denim con plaston, pantaloni di lino con pirices: tutto Trussardi 1911; bombetta di panno, A.N.G.E.L.O.; boots, Diesel

You are drawn to listen to the landscape.

Camicia di cotone e pantaloni gessati, Diesel Black Gold; cravatta tricot di seta, Gallo; calze, Calzedonia; scarpe di suede, Paul Smith

Dream of other places.


Giacca da smoking doppiopetto di tela mohair e camicia di popeline, Prada

I've never been to Ireland, but this reminds me of the works of some Irishmen, starting with Seamus Heaney.


Caban di tela e camicia di cotone pressato, Closed; pantaloni di misto lino, PS Paul Smith

Memories of hawthorn burning.

Camicia di lino e pantaloni oversize a vita alta, Belstaff; cintura, Closed; calze, Calzedonia; boots, Diesel

Gilet di cotone, PS Paul Smith; camicia rigata e pantaloni oversize, Paul Smith; bombetta, A.N.G.E.L.O.

Bogs. From what I've read, it seems impossible to just dip your toe in the country.


Abito di lino con giacca monopetto e pantaloni a sigaretta, Etro; boots, harley-Davidson

You run through its streets.

Pantaloni di cotone rigato stretti in fondo, Emporio Armani; calze, Calzedonia; tessuto di raso lucido, Jab

You get to know adversity.


Abito con giacca monopetto e pantaloni stretti in fondo, Canali; camicia di cotone traforata, Etro

Trench di seta con cappucio, Giorgio Armani; gilet monopetto, Sisley; camicia di cotone e pantaloni con microcheck, United Colors of Benetton

Fantastic Man goes nude and naked

Set at Maspalomas, "one of Spain's most delightful hot spots for naturists", this Fantastic Man editorial (with the same title) for its 2010 Spring Summer issue is one of the most subtle and muted layouts I've seen.


Mr. James Wells is a London resident of northern origins, who works on Savile Row and in his spare time enjoys a good game of Scrabble. Here he waves a hearty welcome wearing a flesh-coloured vest with a nice trim by Petar Petrov and trousers from Cos that sit super-flat and boast a deliciously precise waist band. Strangely, felsh- and nude-coloured clothes are favoured by many a designer yet rarely make it to the shop floor.

Photography by Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Styling by Jodie Barnes




James is with his kind in a nude-tone suit by Calvin Klein Collection, worn with nothing underneath




The shirt underneath is me blushing.


James is wearing a suit by Ann Demeulemeester that benefits from an extra buttonhole detail halfway up the lapel. The shirt in a slightly pinker tone is by Wooyoungmi




My perfect combination! I should try this out soon. Got to admit that the delectably thin belt is likewise "better than naked".


Both nude and sheer: one of fashion's bravest combinations. James pulls it off in a Duckie Brown shirt, worn with Paul Smith trousers and a Tillman Lauterbach belt




But this shows that with the right trouser details, belt can be freely eschewed.


At the beach bar with some German tourist friends (not shown here), James is dressed for cocktail hour in an ingeniously seamed shirt by Lanvin and Kenzo trousers with a pocket so proud it comes with its ow button



James wears a flesh-tone vest from American Apparel. Complementing both the vest and his legs are shorts by Tillman Laueterbach




The beauty visible all around requires a cigarette for full contemplation. For the occasion, James is wearing a shirt by Giorgio Armani and trousers by Missoni




This is the first time I've heard of Tillman Lauterbach. Take a peek at the Fall 2010 collection and you'll see that the nude theme may have been mostly or partially inspired by him.


James relaxes on the beach, his outfit benefitting from a beautiful tonal contrast. He's looking very handsome in a polo shirt from Fred Perry and track pants by Tillman Lauterbach