AnOther Man: Untitled editorial in red

The idea of wearing bandages as tops isn't knew. Pieces by Raf Simons in this shoot may have in fact been influenced by old artisanal articles by Martin Margiela. Coincidentally, new clothes by the Belgian designer appear alongside the "new" bandage tops by Simons. I take it as homage.


Rubber bandage (worn as top), Expectations
Untitled editorial from AnOther Man 7, Autumn/Winter 2008
Photography by Mark Segal, Styling by Alister Mackie

I think it's no coincidence that the archive-inspired bandage tops appear in the same editorial as these vintage cropped shirts by Vivienne Westwood, which are very 80s. The reference, of course, is Britain during that era and the Sex Pistol's Johnny Rotten.


Patterned jacket and tartan trousers, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus; lycra t-shirt, vintage Sex by Vivienne Westwood from Rellik; patent leather high tops by Reebok by Juun J

How else can Portobello and Rick Owens mix?

Military cap and reversible tartan jacket, Portobello market; long sleeve fine jersey t-shirts, Rick Owens; torn t-shirt, Wasteland; high waisted trousers, Yohji Yamamoto

Rubber bodysuit, Expectations; padlock pendant necklace and bracelet, TEM; Dead End pendant necklace, Atelier 11; high waisted trousers, Yohji Yamamoto; leather belt, Julius

Even the check shirts are cropped. Red tartans look good with other patterns in black. Again, as in a past editorial I posted, this outfit will not be as effective if the model weren't blond.


Three button fitted jacket and silk pocket square, Yves Saint Laurent; checked shirt, Angels; trousers, Gucci



And as precocious looking.

Oversized mohair tank top and jersey shorts, Rick Owens; rubber collar, Expectations

With that sensual defiance in his eyes.

Leather biker jacket archive, Jitrois; checked shirt, Diesel; torn t-shirt, Wasteland; Dead End pin, Atelier 11; padlock chain and safety pin necklaces, TEM

And yes! Red pants. I don't know if I will dare, but just look at these pairs!


Brick print jacket, Maison Martin Margiels; bandage top and collar, Raf Simons; bullet pendant necklace, TEM; trousers, Prada

Knotted rubber waistcoat, Maison Martin Margiela; trousers, Jil Sander; silver ring, Atelier 11

Nothing really as blatant as that color. You will need all the patterns at hand, and especially the color black, to tame it.


Lycra t-shirt, vintage Sex by Vivienne Westwood from Rellik; trousers, Filippa K; patterened silk scarves, Gucci; bandanas, Rokit

Tartan tuxedo jacket, Vivienne Westwood Man; tartan shirt, Wasteland; padlock chain, TEM; marbled trousers, Jil Sander

And this, this is just bloody fabulous.

Bandage top and saftey pin brooch, Raf Simons

Volume and severity: Jil Sander + Gianfranco Ferré

Pitting pieces from these two collections against each other produces a veritable clash between two expressionistic titans.



Giant coats and knit mufflers confront a supressed waistline and rounded shoulders.



Clearly, these big silhouettes and seemingly unforgiving outfits were made for a new breed of Masters of the Universe.



Though not all ensembles are excessive; some merely impose a sartorial discipline.



Left: Gianfranco Ferré, right: Jil Sander





Between technological innovations in synthetic or mixed fabrics come these seductive jackets.







Herringbone and black-and-white knits serve to tone down grand statements.



So do the cut of these jackets.



With these brave suggestions, one may think fashion is never called to stay within the limits of the social climate.

Black in Berlin

Well, not exactly. Images also from Copenhagen and Paris fashion weeks, taken for Stil in Berlin.

Berlin Fashion Week, Timo, 20, writer
Jacket, blazer, shirt, and brooch: all vintage; jeans, H&M; shoes, Vagabond

No matter how many bright and jewel colors were presented in the Fall 2009 menswear shows, I suppose many still prefer commiserating with the weather.

Weinmeisterstraße: Georg, 20, student
Jacket and shoes, Cos; jeans, Cheap Monday; shoes, H&M

Berlin Fashion Week, Paul, 21, model
Pilot jacket, vintage; shirt and boots, Ann Demeulemeester; jeans, Levi's; necklace, self-made

Darryl Natale for SiB - Steinstraße, Charlie, shop attendant
Cap, shoes, and scarf: all vintage; glasses, Theo; jacket, Ann Demeulemeester; skirt, Comme des Garçons; bag, custom-made

Paris Fashion Week, Marcelo, 32, senior fashion editor for Rodeo Magazine from Patagonia, Argentina
Original Patagonian poncho and hat; jacket, Alexander McQueen; shirt, Givenchy; jeans, April 77; shoes, Yves Saint Laurent; belt, Jil Sander

Weinmeisterstraße: Sebastian, 21, student from Uppsala
Jacket, Acne; cardigan, boots, and pendant: all by Ann Demeulemeester; tank, Rick Owens; jeans, April 77; scarf, Julius; gloves, Monki

Paris Fashion Week, Andrew, 24, architect from Copenhagen
Hat, Label Under Construction; jacket, t-shirts, pants, boots, and gloves: all Rick Owens; scarf, Faliero Sarti

Paris Fashion Week, Daniel Thawley, 20, model and stylist from London
Hat, vintage; hoodie, shirts, and pants: all Rick Owens; boots and pendant, Ann Demeulemeester; scarf, self-made; gloves, Marc Jacobs; bracelet, Dior

Paris Fashion Week, Corc Demir, 17, student from Cologne
Jacket and necklace, vintage; shirt and bag, H&M; jeans, Cheap Monday; shoes, Goetz; glasses, Davidoff

Paris Fashion Week, Sergio, 25, editor from Berlin
Jacket, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair; boots, Ann Demeuelemeester; shirt, Acne; pants, Helmut Lang; scarf, Thanks Max; belt, HTC

Copenhagen Fashion Week, Rune, 29, trend scout (Outside Wood Wood)
Jacket, trousers, hat, bowtie, and bag: all vintage; cardigan, Filippa K; shirt, Yves Saint Laurent; shoes; Givenchy

Gray cable knit

No, I didn't fly to any temperate country. And though I would champion tropical layering anytime, I just couldn't resist. I brought this sweater out, just for kicks.

Sweater and thrifted shirt: both Zara; jeans: Jil Sander; eco-friendly scarf, thrifted; thrifted laceups, Clarks



If somebody made a stainless steel or aluminum chainmail vest, I'd probably also wear it. There's just something about the pattern created by links.

I can't turn my back on them, even for a few moments during a tropical afternoon.


Photos by Patricia Suzara

The club collar by Tim Hamilton

Though Jil Sander also recently showed a red suit with a tieless white shirt, the effect is more severe, less thoughtful.



I prefer to see the club collar less something like a costume, but more a state of mind. A style statement like a pursed lip - without any need for words.



A scarf would be unfortunate, and a tie would have to be carefully chosen. Just see how rendered in plaid, the collar takes the character of a bow tie.



I think the club collar is the anchor for this Fall 2009 collection; the rest are deviations.

WestEast: Luminous alloys

As an introduction to two colorful editorials from this spring's issue of Numéro Homme, here is an editorial from way back in 2003 from Hong Kong-based WestEast magazine, for which I have been a regular contributor.

Gold lama jacket, Robero Cavalli; mustard yellow trousers, Kenzo; luminous yellow sports jacket, Frankie Morello; mauve tank top, Louis Vuitton; gold leather belt, Dior Homme; white gold and diamond pendant, Cartier

From 'Luminous alloys', WestEast Magazine Spring 2003

I have mustard yellow jeans and have always found them challenging to wear, especially since the climate here doesn't allow the same layering as these outfits.

Orange t-shirt, Paul Smith; silver sleeveless puffer, Prada Sport; gold lame suit, Roberto Cavalli; orange jacket, Jil Sander; turquoise silk scarf, Kenzo; metallic striped scarf, Burberry; vintage orange glasses; Harvve Benard from a selection at Cutler and Gross

Six years after and bright colors - flourescents, neons, and hot tints - still find their way into collections and shoots, and are still put together with metallics. Let's see how I'll wear my yellow jeans this time around.

Electric blue silk suit (trousers worn underneath), Dior Homme; pink and black pin stripe trousers; Etro; baseball boots, Louis Vuitton; leather belt; Dior Homme; pink t-shirt, Paul Smith; vintage sunglasse from a selection at Cutler and Gross

Photography by Eric Maillet, Fashion Editor: Georgina Hodson

All the patterns and textures

This ensemble shot by Scott has had a lasting effect on me. Subtle sophistication that is a balance of the bold and the muted: just the way I like it.

I couldn't exactly produce a useable combination since I would wither under leather and tweed in Manila heat. But while I look for textural alternatives, here is my take on the multi-pattern motif.

Here I repeat the pairing of this sweater and my polka dot shirt, but I have also added the striped necktie and the leather filigree belt (design not obvious). Come to think of it, with the smooth and slippery texture of the jeans and the canvas material of the sneakers, not only do I have four patterns, but also six textures!


Sweater, Sisley; shirt, Topman; necktie and Comme des Garçons sneakers: both thrifted; filgiree belt, Brave Beltworks; jeans, Jil Sander

Where in the world is Martin Margiela?

Elusive as the Belgian designer already is—refusing to appear in public or be interviewed by the media—rumors have spread that he has been away from Maison Martin Margiela even before the shows last season.

Nobody has straight answers to the barrage of intriguing questions: Who designs now? Since when has he been gone? Is it true that Renzo Rosso of Diesel, which controls MMM, has interviewed Raf Simons and Haider Ackermann for the position?

Even this alleged picture of him (circa 1997) has not been verified.

It is indeed a shame and a tragedy if it is true that conflict in terms of creative control has prompted the sartorial genius to step aside or to leave altogether. He has been called the last remaining original designer, with the rest of the industry merely appropriating his ideas into their own collections.

It will be a a tragedy for the fashion world if these rumors can be confirmed. And even then, the revelation would only lead to more questions: How long does he plan to be away? Will he pursue other artistic interests like Helmut Lang? Will he just do collaborations like Jil Sander for Uniqlo?

What will we wear?

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Update: A Diesel insider has stated that the rumors are not true. What a relief!