Rips and pleats

So I woke up yesterday morning wanting to wear something shiny. I hadn't used this American Boulevard shirt for quite some time so I decided to fish it out. Only problem was it had always been a little too long, so I decided, with brave finality, to shorten the hem myself. With nothing but scissors.

Shirt, American Boulevard; ripped jeans, Neil Barrett; thrifted belt; stainless steel abacus necklace, from 168; white leather sneakers (not seen), Converse; briefcase (below), Tyler

Of course I was hoping that the rough edges would also give it a raw feel, but after finishing with the act, that became the least of my problems. The shirt was this time too short! I was near to running late for work, so, with another spur of the moment decision, I sent for a few safety pins.

The damage control looked like this. I need stitching along the upper hem, but I have to decide exactly how to re-attach the part I cut to give that layered effect. More safety pins, studs, gimlets...do you have any ideas? Do you think I should repeat the process for the sleeves?

Whatever I do, I want to retain the raw effect. I think this accident promises a good first DIY project.

As the excitement of the day wore off, I traded my ripped shirt for this pleated one and changed sneakers for an adidas event.

Tuxedo shirt, Zara; ripped jeans, Neil Barrett; thrifted sneakers, Gucci; watch, Omega Seamaster

Outdoor photos by Patricia Suzara

The sheer joy of it

"Only photograph what you love," the mom of a friend told Tim Walker. I stumbled on this quote in a special edition of L'Uomo Vogue. This must be true for any artist to continue and thrive being one. And for this case, also for bloggers: only post what you love.

What is a man?

With so many things to feature and discuss, it's easy to go crazy and even publish up to 10 posts a day. But then again, love cannot be hurried.

A man is comfortable being alone. Loves being alone, actually. He sleeps.

I know I have been rambling for so many months now, and am grateful to find out that some of you do read my thoughts and not just peruse the pictures. Truth be told, I love complexity and approach things from different angles. (That's why I ramble!)

Or he stands watch. He interrupts trouble. This is the state policeman. This is the poet. Men, both of them.

Have you noticed, perhaps, this blog's banner? It's not a picture from a magazine or an art gallery. It's actually the floor of a jeepney (a public mode of transportation in the Philippines), with three layers of paint scraped, peeled, and scratched in every possible way. Sometimes I think like that.

A man loves driving alone most of all.

Then patterns appear. Even if they come in weird shapes, they can be deciphered in repetition.

Style — a man has that. No matter how eccentric that style is, it is uncontrived. It's a set of rules.

Things become transparent — sheer — and joy increases because you can see every shape and also the entire pattern.

Sheer shirt, tie, and shoes: all thrifted; jeans, Neil Barrett; belt, APC; watch, Tissot. Photos by Patricia Suzara


A man watches. Sometimes he goes and sits at an auction knowing he won't spend a dime, witnessing the temptation and the maneuvering of others. Sometimes he stands on the street corner watching stuff...

No one taught him this — to be quiet, to cipher, to watch. In this way, in these moments, the man is like a zoo animal: both captive and free. You cannot take your eyes off a man when he is like that. You shouldn't. The hell if you know what he is thinking, who he is, or what he will do next.

'What is a man?' by Tom Chiarella, Esquire magazine

L'Uomo Vogue

I had written about Vogue Italia before, featuring their covers from various decades and also praising both the editorial vision and the personal style of its editor, Franca Sozzani, but I had never realized that its men's counterpart, L'Uomo Vogue, was such a breathtaking magazine.

Folie Bizzare, from L'Uomo Vogue January 2006

Camicia bianca di fiandra, B>More; striped pants, Givenchy; lace scarf, Southpaw; stivali da motociclista, Odds; collana, Kt. PER LEI: Ivory frac jacket, Jean Paul Gaultier; jeans, As Four



Camicia di denim con plastron, Neil Barrett; painted jeans, Polo Ralph Lauren; navy cord, Fenton USA; foulard in vita, Southpaw; pointed boots, Destroy @ Trash and Vaudeville. PER LEI: Pants di pelle e stivali, Daryl K



From the few issues that I have, I was awed by the way it captured past and present eras (in this case, projecting a future one) with the decadence of emotion, but practicing enough restraint to render its images possible, near to wearable.



DA SINISTRA: Camicia bianca e silk pullover, Gucci; shiny golden linen pants, Dolce & Gabbana; cappello, Marc Jacobs; black boots, Destroy @ Trash & Vaudeville; collane d'oro, Fenton USA e Alyssa Norton. PER LEI: Pants di pelle, Alexander McQueen; stivali, Jean Paul Gaultier; sciarpa di seta, Southpaw; catena con piume, Fenton USA. Gold metallic blazer, Dolce & Gabbana; white tuxedo shirt, Jean Paul Gaultier; brown leather pants, John Galliano; cintura bicolore, Roberto Cavalli; stivali, Odds



L'Uomo Vogue presents a man who is intense and at the same time aloof. In spite of his style jests, he is ultimately simple and grounded, confident of who he is.



DA SINISTRA: Camicia con ruches e pantaloni da smoking argento e nero, Roberto Cavalli; jacket, John Richmond; stivali, Cloak. PER LEI: Black cape, Vintage Loft; pantaloni, VPL. Military blazer, Carlo Pignatelli Outside; camicia bianca con plastron, Neil Barrett; pantaloni neri, John Richmond; cintura di pelle con fibbia gioiello, Roberto Cavalli. Blazer beige e pants, tutto Emporio Armani; band jacket, Odds



Upon reading (actually just looking at!) this magazine, I am more and more convinced of the viability of fashion photography as a visual art. L'Uomo Vogue raises images to the level of intimate moments - even portraits.

This editorial is only my first post on this fantastic find. Can't wait to share the rest!

Photography by Tom Munro
Fashion editor: Victoria Bartlett

Thom Browne on GQ Style: Vertigo

Thom Browne: I was inspired by the old Brooks Brothers jackets my grandfather and father used to wear, and by old movies from the 1950s and 1960s. But it was more about capturing the essence of things rather than copying how they were actually put together.



Though this editorial may have nothing to do with the 1950s Alfred Hitchcock movie with the same title, they are set in the same decade.

Tuxedo suits, dinner shirts, silk bow ties: all Thom Browne

'Vertigo', GQ Style 8 Spring-Summer 2009
By Phil Poynter, Styled by David Bradshaw

Could vertigo in this context mean a return or fall back to the past?

Ben wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers; pocket square, from a selection, Thom Browne

Perhaps not.

Instead, this editorial seems to attempt a depiction of the "Thom Browne man" (wearing, of course, Thom Browne and Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers) as contrasted against other "types" of men who not only identify with other labels but look more suited for them.

Rob wears cream suit, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers; pocket square, from a selection, Thom Browne

Clockwise from far left: Rob wears cream jacket, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers. Brandon wears cream jacket, Neil Barrett; shirt, tie, trousers: all Louis Vuitton. Blake wears cream jacket, shirt, tie, trousers: all Richard James. Ben wears cream jacket (part of suit), shirt, tie, trousers: all Dolce & Gabbana. Sean wears off-white jacket, shirt, tie: all Kilgour. All pocket squares, from a selection, Thom Browne



It depicts the old boys' club, where, even if the Thom Browne man looks relatively unititiated, he is primed to lead the pack.


Blake wears chalkstripe suit, shirt: both Kilgour; tie, Thomas Pink; Grand Carrera calibre 17rs watch, Tag Heuer. Ben wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Ralph Lauren Purple Label; shoes, Barker Black; Grand Carrera calibre 8rs watch, Tag Heuer; pen, Dunhill. Sean wears three-piece pinstripe suit, shirt: both Valentino; tie, Prada; shoes, Kurt Geiger. Rob wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers; shoes, Brooks Brothers; Santos Dumont watch, Cartier. Brandon wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Billy Reid. All pocket squares, from a selection, Thom Browne; all socks, Falke

Now this scene is unnerving. Why is there only a single item in his briefcase, and a newspaper of all things?

Cream suit, Black Fleecce by Brooks Brothers; attache case, Thom Browne; Grand Carrera 17rs watch, Tag Heuer

Is there an underlying story in this fashion piece - perhaps a moment of uncertainty before the maturing of an influential identity?



Brandon wears suit, tie, shoes: all Dior Homme. Ben wears suit, shirt, tie: all Dunhill; shoes, Barker Black. Sean wears suit, shirt, tie: all Calvin Klein Collection; shoes, Kurt Geiger. Rob wears suit, shirt, tie, pocket square, from a selection: all Thom Browne. Blake wears jacket, trousers, shirt, tie, shoes: all Emporio Armani

Changing weather

As word of blizzards and heavy snow cover the news in New York and other parts, the first day of El Niño in Manila and other areas make us half-wish for whiter, cooler weather. Ideas of what is more pleasant of course depends on what is not available.

Summer!

Mardi Gras passed and I wasn't even aware of it. The next day I was wondering why so many people had dirty foreheads...

Time for a change of place. Ironically, that may be the solution for my displacement.


Hoodie, Izzue; polo shirt, Armani Exchange; jeans, Neil Barrett; woven belt, Nautica; necklace, Bosquejo

Photo by Patricia Suzara

Roadkill

Just a few minutes left to the weekend. Some bloggers post outfits, portraits, or even songs on Sundays. Maybe I'll try out a new habit: a short recap of the past few days to torture/encourage myself of what I have accomplished. Or what simply slid through my daily-crafted schedule or my mind, lost between the lines.




Been less sickly, so yes to: gym, blogging, reading (on the last few pages of Patrick White's Riders in the Chariot), DVD shopping (Dune, Vengeance trilogy, The Last Station, Monster, Happy Together, etc), book shopping (Doris Lessing's The Golden Notebook), movie out (though it was worthless), meet with an old friend over coffee. No: new Bosquejo jewelry made (though some posted), wasn't able to re-organize my room (never-ending process), … actually this list never ends. And mostly because I also said yes to: sleep, bad habits, and all the other entries in my yes list.


Polo shirt, Underground; hood, Izzue; braided belt, Nautica; jeans, Neil Barrett; electric typewriter case repurposed as a laptop bag; scarf and nylon tote: both thrifted; sneakers, Generic Surplus

Photos by Patricia Suzara

Peeling away old skin

Okay, before you say anything. Many of you probably already know where I work based on repeat backdrops, like this one, which I think first appeared when I dared wear a newsboy cap (and when I looked younger and knew less about Photoshop). Then these "lines" appear again, with mush in between.

At least now I know better than to pretend that hats agree with me. Having fun with this beanie, though I really must have a haircut soon (maybe as short as this). Just have to finish some stuff that is keeping me from moving on.




Actually went ahead wearing this combination yesterday, when it was raining hard. A little inspired by Thom Browne's tricolors for Moncler. Also since this sheer shirt hasn't gotten much wear. Topped them off with an old Eddie Bauer windbreaker, which, believe it or not, I also used in the only editorial I ever styled. The checks under the patterned shirt look like a new layer of skin ready to be revealed.

Windbreaker, Eddie Bauer; shirts and belt: all thrifed; jeans: Lee




Skin too is the topic of this "Hips and Lips" tangerine and TV-static tee I bought from Rogan years ago. Again, I am feeling that change is imminent, and of course I can't wait. Though I know that I mustn't rush anything premature. Hell, even if I'm nearing 30!

Sweater, Sisley; tee, Rogan; jeans, Neil Barrett; beanie, 5cm; tote, thrifted; tiger's eye bracelet from Divisoria




Now I must hunker down and finish my work. I am not worried about getting old. More concerned that new skin would rot before old layers decide to fall off.


Outfit photos by Patricia Suzara

Markings on the wall

Trust me, I do not always enjoy layering, especially when office colleagues insist on cranking up the AC and I just want to bury my face in fabric and not talk to anybody. But I am not writing to you about thick skin, much less pet peeves.




In fact, this time, I have really nothing to say. Except maybe that sunlight, even at noon, is much more comforting than a cream-colored scarf. Which for certain unexpected days more than peeps through leaves, but manages to delight: summer in a yellow dress. Bright leaves sprinkled over dark gutter water.




These days there is no need to scrape for joy from the bottom of our jarful of minutes. No need to untangle any yarns.




Except maybe how we have forgotten to say what we really feel, which melts nakedly under the sun. Or thickens like dust on concrete walls, into grime.


Photos by Patricia Suzara

Thrifted wire-hem jacket and camouflage belt: both Izzue; jeans, Neil Barrett; sneakers, Bass; shirt and scarf: thrifted

Snapped at Philippine Fashion Week

Thanks again to Edrick of Happy Laboratory for taking this first set of pics, from the last day of Philippine Fashion Week, when my hair was still a little longer, and grayer.


Tee, Hanes; jeans, Neil Barrett; Bally woven laceups and nylon tote: both thrifted; stainless steel razor necklace, Bosquejo




Before that, Mika of Manila Streetstyle took my pic, though my hair looks green here and not ash blonde. But I must admit, blonde gives a totally different perspective on blue. As if the color loved you.


Tee and sweater, Zara; drawstring pants, Marks & Spencer; necklace, OS; espadrilles from Spain; bigger tote at the back, designed by Ricky Villabona; suede brief, vintage