More than a sentimental trip back to the baroque, this editorial is an ode to the genius of Hedi Slimane, and to the uncanny mix of his vision with the tradition of the house of Dior.
White and black tuxedos profilati, Dolce & Gabbana; jabot shirts, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting; sciarpa e shoes, Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane; ring, Jelena Behrend Studio
From L'Uomo Vogue, January 2006
It also shows how a little research and resourcefulness by a stylist can peel of the paint of centuries.
Ivory cotton suit, Prada; gilet e camicia con pizzi, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting; sciarpa, Ellen Christine Millinery
Frock-coat, tuxedo pants, camicia blanca, suspenders e scarpe, white vest, skinny pants, canotta nera e smoking shoes: tutto Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane
Ruffled shirt e pants, Dries Van Noten; vest bianco e pantaloni: tutto Paul Smith; gilet e camicia con ruches, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting; tutte le calze del servizio sono, Wolford
Ivory tuxedo, camicia bianca ruches: tutto Roberto Cavalli
Black suit, Miu Miu; gilet bianco, sciarpa e babbucce de vernice: tutto Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane; robe de chambre e pantaloni, Gucci: collarless shirt, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting
Photos by Max Vadukul Fashion editor, Nicoletta Santoro
I find it silly how the financial crisis has given people excuses to tone down "excess" for the sake of appearing sympathetic. I mean, you only should if your existing level of compensation and incentives have been part of the vehicle that drove economies to hardship. If not, why pretend?
White tuxedo, Ermenegildo Zegna; smoking nero, Hugo Boss Black; giacca bianca con collo a scialle, Brioni; camicia, Del Siena; smoking con camicia, Gianfranco Ferré; cappa dorata, Norma Kamali @ Resurrection
Besides, how can you miss out on such a lovely scarf?
From L'Uomo Vogue, January 2006 Photos by Greg Kadel
A good fashion photograph is based upon taste and style. It depends on what you place in front of the camera. If you place something that's lame in front of the lens, you won't produce gold; the most you can expect is either brass or nickel. (Walter Chin, photographer)
Just look at these exquisite details. They make formal evening wear lavish without being loud, their obvious extravagance played down.
Stylish ceremony, from L'Uomo Vogue January 2006
Allowing utmost ease and even laziness.
But never losing that rarefied charm.
Or that particular playfulness.
Can you still call these men penguins?
Tuxedos, evening dresses, ruffled shirts e sparati, tail jackets e bow ties: tutto Carlo Pignatelli Cerimonia. Tutte le scarpe da smoking sono Church's e Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane. Jewels, Ellegem NY
Photography by Walter Chin Fashion editor: Robert Rabensteiner
I had written about Vogue Italia before, featuring their covers from various decades and also praising both the editorial vision and the personal style of its editor, Franca Sozzani, but I had never realized that its men's counterpart, L'Uomo Vogue, was such a breathtaking magazine.
Folie Bizzare, from L'Uomo Vogue January 2006
Camicia bianca di fiandra, B>More; striped pants, Givenchy; lace scarf, Southpaw; stivali da motociclista, Odds; collana, Kt. PER LEI: Ivory frac jacket, Jean Paul Gaultier; jeans, As Four
Camicia di denim con plastron, Neil Barrett; painted jeans, Polo Ralph Lauren; navy cord, Fenton USA; foulard in vita, Southpaw; pointed boots, Destroy @ Trash and Vaudeville. PER LEI: Pants di pelle e stivali, Daryl K
From the few issues that I have, I was awed by the way it captured past and present eras (in this case, projecting a future one) with the decadence of emotion, but practicing enough restraint to render its images possible, near to wearable.
DA SINISTRA: Camicia bianca e silk pullover, Gucci; shiny golden linen pants, Dolce & Gabbana; cappello, Marc Jacobs; black boots, Destroy @ Trash & Vaudeville; collane d'oro, Fenton USA e Alyssa Norton. PER LEI: Pants di pelle, Alexander McQueen; stivali, Jean Paul Gaultier; sciarpa di seta, Southpaw; catena con piume, Fenton USA. Gold metallic blazer, Dolce & Gabbana; white tuxedo shirt, Jean Paul Gaultier; brown leather pants, John Galliano; cintura bicolore, Roberto Cavalli; stivali, Odds
L'Uomo Vogue presents a man who is intense and at the same time aloof. In spite of his style jests, he is ultimately simple and grounded, confident of who he is.
DA SINISTRA: Camicia con ruches e pantaloni da smoking argento e nero, Roberto Cavalli; jacket, John Richmond; stivali, Cloak. PER LEI: Black cape, Vintage Loft; pantaloni, VPL. Military blazer, Carlo Pignatelli Outside; camicia bianca con plastron, Neil Barrett; pantaloni neri, John Richmond; cintura di pelle con fibbia gioiello, Roberto Cavalli. Blazer beige e pants, tutto Emporio Armani; band jacket, Odds
Upon reading (actually just looking at!) this magazine, I am more and more convinced of the viability of fashion photography as a visual art. L'Uomo Vogue raises images to the level of intimate moments - even portraits.
This editorial is only my first post on this fantastic find. Can't wait to share the rest!
Photography by Tom Munro Fashion editor: Victoria Bartlett
Here is what I wore today. Again paired my thrifted navy blazer with jeans, but this time, also with sneakers. The Penguin tee I decided to work into the outfit to add a classic touch.
Pretty simple compared to the wardrobes used in the five DVD titles I was able to buy this afternoon: Ashes of Time (Redux) by Wong Kar Wai, Red Cliff by John Woo, The Last Metro by François Truffaut, Burn after Reading by the Coen brothers, and finally The Fall by Tarsem. Below are their trailers, plus some video covers and movie stills.
Ashes of Time (Redux)
This is probably the remaining Wong Kar Wai film I haven't seen, except for Blueberry Nights, which I have a copy of, but I haven't gotten around watching.
Wong Kar Wai + Tony Leung Chiu Wai + Maggie Cheung = the unbeatable mix. Expect the unexpected.
Red Cliff
Tony Leung Chiu Wai is also in John Woo's Red Cliff. Although I am not familiar with Woo's work, I like epic Chinese movies and am also a fan of Leung.
The Last Metro
This one I almost left in the shelf until I saw the name of the director, and once again, the lead actors. I don't think I have seen Gerard Depardieu and Catherine Deneuve so young.
I just have to say that I like the green sweater Depardieu is wearing. That's all.
Burn After Reading
Okay, so this movie is not that period, or old, but the outfits and the treatment is so contemporary American that I included it under the "costume" heading. Plus, it's by the Coen brothers, and Frances McDormand and Tilda Swinton appear in it.
This was screened, I think, just for two weeks here in Manila. I wasn't able to see it, so I immediately bought the DVD when I found it.
The Fall
Now, The Fall. I wouldn't have known of its existence if it weren't for Ant of Alphabetical. How could this 2006 gem of a movie been hiding under a rock and beyond my notice?
And this is what brings me to the second half of my topic: admit it, the lead actor's vest immediately caught your attention.
Besides the band jacket detailing, it looks interesting because it reminds you of a matador. I want the button detailing for my own jacket, but since this is already very ubiquitous, I want to play with the idea of having a tailor create a hybrid.
Spencer ricamata con bottoni, Alexander McQueen; obi, Kyoto Komono. L'Uomo Vogue Gennaio 2006
I want it with the fine button and sequin detailing of this Alexander McQueen piece. I am not yet sure how I would have it made — if everything would be a shade of a single color (black or gray) or if I would use buttons and sequins (shiny or matted or both, and in different sizes) to simulate other patterns, say, python skin.
I admit that the original may have one too many buttons and it would be hard to use such a piece for day-to-day. Maybe I will just reduce the number of buttons then compelte whatever pattern I decide on with fabric. Who knows?
All I know is that I want a unique jacket all my own and with the details I am fond of. Let's see what I (and the tailor) can come up with. For now, I will have to turn Manila inside out in search of the perfect buttons and sequins. I hope the idea is feasible. Let's see!
Navy blazer, thrifted; jeans, Marlboro Classics; tee, Original Penguin; sneakers, Converse
Can we be as lucky with the growing swine flu pandemic?
Though this editorial paints a dysmal picture after global damage from climate change, surely these oxygen masks look better with suits than simple medical face masks.
'The tomorrow style', L'Uomo Vogue November 2006 By Steven Klein
Bring it on, armageddon.
Images fromThe Fashion Spot, scanned by muskcatie, and posted on a thread on favorite male editorials.
