FT How to Spend It: White rider

Apologies for the dodgy quality of images; have time enough to take photos and not scan. Besides, don't you think that the semi-sepia quality the light gives this editorial enhances period feel? I don't know why, but I get the vibe of the depressing 30s. Is it the bikes?


Theo wears embroidered evening Dylan jacket by Gucci; jeans by Kilgour; t-shirt (just seen) by Homino Emerito by Mango; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten; leather belt and leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Madeleine wears linen Metador Bolero with ruffles on the back and silk Cuff trousers, both by Phillip Lim; silk top by Roberto Cavalli; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel; leather brogues by Church's

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson, Styling by Damian Foxe

Extremes have always appealed to me: from all black to all white, even all beige and gray. There's just an unavoidably dashing air to the neutral monochrome.


Wiktor (left) wears Jacquard cotton Dylan jacket, Jacquard cotton Havana trousers, and white leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle: all by Gucci; cotton shirt by Thomas Pink; leather snake-effect ankle boots by Paul Smith. Hampus wears Jacquard cotton evening Dylan jacket and Jacquard evening Havana trousers, both by Gucci; leather loafers by J by J Jasper Conran from Debenhams

And did I mention how I just adore the hairstyles and the hint of androgyny? I wonder if all the models are blondes, or have they been bleached?

Madeleine wears cotton Catrin shirt by Thomas Pink; cotton trousers by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

The tailoring is of course impeccable. After white pants, I certainly intend to wear white jackets and blazers.


Wiktor (leftmost) wears cashmere blazer from Brioni; jeans by Kilgour; cotton shirt by Versace; leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Hampus (centre) wears cotton and cashmere three-piece suit by Ermenegildo Zegna; knitted silk scarf by Kilgour; leather Nobel brogues by Grenson from Matches. Theo wears cotton and cashmere suit and cotton and silk blend shirt, both by Ermenegildo Zegna; leather shoes by Camper

Can it just be the romance of the Old World, of past eras?

Madeleine wears cotton organza blouse with jabot by Gianfranco Ferré; cotton trousers (just seen) by Paul Smith

Or the glamour of previous decades translated for the present one?

Theo wears cotton jacket, cotton trousers, white and navy jersey (just seen), and suede shoes: all by Bottega Veneta; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten

It's amazing how men's shoes like brogues work so well when appropriated by womenswear.

Madeleine wear cotton sweater by John Smedley; silk trousers by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton embroidered cravat by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

Theo (left) wears silk suit jacket, matching trousers, and silk sweater: all by Dolce & Gabbana. Wiktor wears silk suit jacket and silk suit trousers, both by Dolce & Gabbana; silk and cotton Joery sweater by Dries Van Noten; leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle by Gucci

Silk, jacquard, jersey, cashmere, leather, mohair, hemp, satin, suede: they're all here in one wonderful mix. How can you not love the power of monochrome to bring them all together?


Hampus (far left) wears mohair and wool jacket and cashmere waistcoat, both by Kilgour; ribbed cotton long-sleeve t-shirt and hemp trousers, both by Ann Demeulemeester; leather shoes by Giorgio Armani. Madeleine wears viscose vest by Burberry; satin trousers by Chanel; silks carf (around hips) by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's. Wiktor wears cotton jacket, hemp waistcoat, and cotton trousers: all by Ann Demeulemeester; cotton sweater by John Smedley; leather and suede trainers by Tim Little

Hampus wears cotton suit by Emporio Armani; cotton-mix Jartha cardigan by Dries Van Noten; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel

Only thing is, of course, I don't think you can ride your bike on any street wearing these outifts if you want to keep your single-colored ensemble until you get home.


Madeleine wears silk shantung waistcoat by Stella McCartney; silk crepe trousers by Maria Grachvogel; silk scarf scarf by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's

The empire strikes back: Antonin Tron

This is what happens when Gareth Pugh dreams his nightmares during the day.



Gareth Pugh's "The Wizard of Oz" from the Dark Ages





Dolce and Gabbana's metallic space men





Antonin Tron presented his collection as a 2008 fashion graduate from the Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Belgium.



Pictures from style.com, men.style.com, and superfuture

Numéro Homme: Splash

Summer, it seems, is here - at least for bi-annual magazines. And even if all the outfits are tuxedos, the dominant color is still blue.


Veste et pantalon de smoking, chemise à plastron, ceinture, nœud papillon et pochette, Yves Saint Laurent; boots, Louis Vuitton

'Splash' from Numéro Homme, Printemps-été 2009

Veste de smoking et chemise du soir à col cassé, nœud papillon en soie et pochette, Giorgio Armani

Break free from tedious uniforms. Penguins, after all, enjoy a good swim.


Veste et pantalon des smoking, Prada; derbys, Louis Vuitton

Summer!


Veste et pantalon de smoking en soie, chemise, nœud papillon et pochette à pois, D&G

Come prepared for unexpected soaks.


Veste de smoking et chemise à col cassé, nœud papillon en soie et boutons de machette, Gianfranco Ferre; maillot de bain, Dolce & Gabbana

Though there should be a limit to chlorine.


Veste du soir, chemise à poignets mousquetaire et nœud papillon, Dolce & Gabbana; slip de bain, Speedo

Savor it while it's still here.


Veste de smoking, chemise, nœud papillon et pochette en soie, Carlo Pignatelli

Par Matthias Vriens
Réalisation, Timothy Reukauf

L'Uomo Vogue: Histoire blanche

More than a sentimental trip back to the baroque, this editorial is an ode to the genius of Hedi Slimane, and to the uncanny mix of his vision with the tradition of the house of Dior.

White and black tuxedos profilati, Dolce & Gabbana; jabot shirts, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting; sciarpa e shoes, Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane; ring, Jelena Behrend Studio

From L'Uomo Vogue, January 2006

It also shows how a little research and resourcefulness by a stylist can peel of the paint of centuries.

Ivory cotton suit, Prada; gilet e camicia con pizzi, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting; sciarpa, Ellen Christine Millinery

Frock-coat, tuxedo pants, camicia blanca, suspenders e scarpe, white vest, skinny pants, canotta nera e smoking shoes: tutto Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane

Ruffled shirt e pants, Dries Van Noten; vest bianco e pantaloni: tutto Paul Smith; gilet e camicia con ruches, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting; tutte le calze del servizio sono, Wolford

Ivory tuxedo, camicia bianca ruches: tutto Roberto Cavalli

Black suit, Miu Miu; gilet bianco, sciarpa e babbucce de vernice: tutto Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane; robe de chambre e pantaloni, Gucci: collarless shirt, Fashion Design Resource & Consulting

Photos by Max Vadukul
Fashion editor, Nicoletta Santoro

Nothing but natural

There is always something sensual about fur.





The way it warms and clothes the body like second skin.





How such luxurious personal comfort elicits both protest and jealousy.





Just like the baring of skin.















These editorials are interesting because they simultaneously depict nakedness and the warmest of clothing.



Fur in all its unabashed, primal glory.



Images from AnOther Man, 2008-2009 Fall/Winter and Vogue Hommes International Paris 2007-2008 Fall/Winter

L'Uomo Vogue

I had written about Vogue Italia before, featuring their covers from various decades and also praising both the editorial vision and the personal style of its editor, Franca Sozzani, but I had never realized that its men's counterpart, L'Uomo Vogue, was such a breathtaking magazine.

Folie Bizzare, from L'Uomo Vogue January 2006

Camicia bianca di fiandra, B>More; striped pants, Givenchy; lace scarf, Southpaw; stivali da motociclista, Odds; collana, Kt. PER LEI: Ivory frac jacket, Jean Paul Gaultier; jeans, As Four



Camicia di denim con plastron, Neil Barrett; painted jeans, Polo Ralph Lauren; navy cord, Fenton USA; foulard in vita, Southpaw; pointed boots, Destroy @ Trash and Vaudeville. PER LEI: Pants di pelle e stivali, Daryl K



From the few issues that I have, I was awed by the way it captured past and present eras (in this case, projecting a future one) with the decadence of emotion, but practicing enough restraint to render its images possible, near to wearable.



DA SINISTRA: Camicia bianca e silk pullover, Gucci; shiny golden linen pants, Dolce & Gabbana; cappello, Marc Jacobs; black boots, Destroy @ Trash & Vaudeville; collane d'oro, Fenton USA e Alyssa Norton. PER LEI: Pants di pelle, Alexander McQueen; stivali, Jean Paul Gaultier; sciarpa di seta, Southpaw; catena con piume, Fenton USA. Gold metallic blazer, Dolce & Gabbana; white tuxedo shirt, Jean Paul Gaultier; brown leather pants, John Galliano; cintura bicolore, Roberto Cavalli; stivali, Odds



L'Uomo Vogue presents a man who is intense and at the same time aloof. In spite of his style jests, he is ultimately simple and grounded, confident of who he is.



DA SINISTRA: Camicia con ruches e pantaloni da smoking argento e nero, Roberto Cavalli; jacket, John Richmond; stivali, Cloak. PER LEI: Black cape, Vintage Loft; pantaloni, VPL. Military blazer, Carlo Pignatelli Outside; camicia bianca con plastron, Neil Barrett; pantaloni neri, John Richmond; cintura di pelle con fibbia gioiello, Roberto Cavalli. Blazer beige e pants, tutto Emporio Armani; band jacket, Odds



Upon reading (actually just looking at!) this magazine, I am more and more convinced of the viability of fashion photography as a visual art. L'Uomo Vogue raises images to the level of intimate moments - even portraits.

This editorial is only my first post on this fantastic find. Can't wait to share the rest!

Photography by Tom Munro
Fashion editor: Victoria Bartlett