FT How to Spend It: White rider

Apologies for the dodgy quality of images; have time enough to take photos and not scan. Besides, don't you think that the semi-sepia quality the light gives this editorial enhances period feel? I don't know why, but I get the vibe of the depressing 30s. Is it the bikes?


Theo wears embroidered evening Dylan jacket by Gucci; jeans by Kilgour; t-shirt (just seen) by Homino Emerito by Mango; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten; leather belt and leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Madeleine wears linen Metador Bolero with ruffles on the back and silk Cuff trousers, both by Phillip Lim; silk top by Roberto Cavalli; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel; leather brogues by Church's

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson, Styling by Damian Foxe

Extremes have always appealed to me: from all black to all white, even all beige and gray. There's just an unavoidably dashing air to the neutral monochrome.


Wiktor (left) wears Jacquard cotton Dylan jacket, Jacquard cotton Havana trousers, and white leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle: all by Gucci; cotton shirt by Thomas Pink; leather snake-effect ankle boots by Paul Smith. Hampus wears Jacquard cotton evening Dylan jacket and Jacquard evening Havana trousers, both by Gucci; leather loafers by J by J Jasper Conran from Debenhams

And did I mention how I just adore the hairstyles and the hint of androgyny? I wonder if all the models are blondes, or have they been bleached?

Madeleine wears cotton Catrin shirt by Thomas Pink; cotton trousers by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

The tailoring is of course impeccable. After white pants, I certainly intend to wear white jackets and blazers.


Wiktor (leftmost) wears cashmere blazer from Brioni; jeans by Kilgour; cotton shirt by Versace; leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Hampus (centre) wears cotton and cashmere three-piece suit by Ermenegildo Zegna; knitted silk scarf by Kilgour; leather Nobel brogues by Grenson from Matches. Theo wears cotton and cashmere suit and cotton and silk blend shirt, both by Ermenegildo Zegna; leather shoes by Camper

Can it just be the romance of the Old World, of past eras?

Madeleine wears cotton organza blouse with jabot by Gianfranco Ferré; cotton trousers (just seen) by Paul Smith

Or the glamour of previous decades translated for the present one?

Theo wears cotton jacket, cotton trousers, white and navy jersey (just seen), and suede shoes: all by Bottega Veneta; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten

It's amazing how men's shoes like brogues work so well when appropriated by womenswear.

Madeleine wear cotton sweater by John Smedley; silk trousers by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton embroidered cravat by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

Theo (left) wears silk suit jacket, matching trousers, and silk sweater: all by Dolce & Gabbana. Wiktor wears silk suit jacket and silk suit trousers, both by Dolce & Gabbana; silk and cotton Joery sweater by Dries Van Noten; leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle by Gucci

Silk, jacquard, jersey, cashmere, leather, mohair, hemp, satin, suede: they're all here in one wonderful mix. How can you not love the power of monochrome to bring them all together?


Hampus (far left) wears mohair and wool jacket and cashmere waistcoat, both by Kilgour; ribbed cotton long-sleeve t-shirt and hemp trousers, both by Ann Demeulemeester; leather shoes by Giorgio Armani. Madeleine wears viscose vest by Burberry; satin trousers by Chanel; silks carf (around hips) by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's. Wiktor wears cotton jacket, hemp waistcoat, and cotton trousers: all by Ann Demeulemeester; cotton sweater by John Smedley; leather and suede trainers by Tim Little

Hampus wears cotton suit by Emporio Armani; cotton-mix Jartha cardigan by Dries Van Noten; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel

Only thing is, of course, I don't think you can ride your bike on any street wearing these outifts if you want to keep your single-colored ensemble until you get home.


Madeleine wears silk shantung waistcoat by Stella McCartney; silk crepe trousers by Maria Grachvogel; silk scarf scarf by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's

Morning news sold out

No matter how noisy, crowded, and grimy, the city will always be dear to me. It is where all lines converge, where parallels intersect. Day in and day out, in between the columns found in national papers lie the lives of everyone around - all of them unavoidably affected, if not incriminated.

Sure, I am not one to turn down one or a few weeks of rest out in the provinces - to the mountains or to the beaches - but I don't know how long I can last so far from the bustle of the metropolis.

Thrifted shirt, Emporio Armani; pants, Gas; scarf, vintage; newsboy cap, Zara; semi-leather shoes, Giordano Concepts; suspenders, SM Department Store

Photos by Patricia Suzara

Numéro Homme: Splash

Summer, it seems, is here - at least for bi-annual magazines. And even if all the outfits are tuxedos, the dominant color is still blue.


Veste et pantalon de smoking, chemise à plastron, ceinture, nœud papillon et pochette, Yves Saint Laurent; boots, Louis Vuitton

'Splash' from Numéro Homme, Printemps-été 2009

Veste de smoking et chemise du soir à col cassé, nœud papillon en soie et pochette, Giorgio Armani

Break free from tedious uniforms. Penguins, after all, enjoy a good swim.


Veste et pantalon des smoking, Prada; derbys, Louis Vuitton

Summer!


Veste et pantalon de smoking en soie, chemise, nœud papillon et pochette à pois, D&G

Come prepared for unexpected soaks.


Veste de smoking et chemise à col cassé, nœud papillon en soie et boutons de machette, Gianfranco Ferre; maillot de bain, Dolce & Gabbana

Though there should be a limit to chlorine.


Veste du soir, chemise à poignets mousquetaire et nœud papillon, Dolce & Gabbana; slip de bain, Speedo

Savor it while it's still here.


Veste de smoking, chemise, nœud papillon et pochette en soie, Carlo Pignatelli

Par Matthias Vriens
Réalisation, Timothy Reukauf

Takeshi Kaneshiro: On hair

The half-Taiwanese, half-Japanese actor and singer represents Emporio Armani this season.



Smoothed out, his long hair gives him that air of gentility for the luxury label.



With more than 30 movies, 6 plays, and 11 music albums to his record, not to mention legions of Asian fans, Kaneshiro is a smart choice for Armani to further penetrate the region's market.





Though he looks better with long, tousled locks, his signature look, his movie that I have enjoyed the most is Wong Kar-Wai's Chungking Express, where his hair is cropped and he looks goofy.









Though Takeshi Kaneshiro is not among the best Asian actors, his face is one of the most distinct and identifiable.



Messy hair is a good frame for his long, angular face. Besides the fact that it is more swoon-worthy for his teenage admirers.





Of course, this type of grooming helps to present distraught and tragic cinematic characters.





But one only has to think of Tony Leung Chiu Wai, who has had short hair for most of his parts, to remember that it must really be the acting.



Though I'm sure no one's complaining.



Photos from Beijing Chic and Think in English, Count in Chinese.

L'Uomo Vogue

I had written about Vogue Italia before, featuring their covers from various decades and also praising both the editorial vision and the personal style of its editor, Franca Sozzani, but I had never realized that its men's counterpart, L'Uomo Vogue, was such a breathtaking magazine.

Folie Bizzare, from L'Uomo Vogue January 2006

Camicia bianca di fiandra, B>More; striped pants, Givenchy; lace scarf, Southpaw; stivali da motociclista, Odds; collana, Kt. PER LEI: Ivory frac jacket, Jean Paul Gaultier; jeans, As Four



Camicia di denim con plastron, Neil Barrett; painted jeans, Polo Ralph Lauren; navy cord, Fenton USA; foulard in vita, Southpaw; pointed boots, Destroy @ Trash and Vaudeville. PER LEI: Pants di pelle e stivali, Daryl K



From the few issues that I have, I was awed by the way it captured past and present eras (in this case, projecting a future one) with the decadence of emotion, but practicing enough restraint to render its images possible, near to wearable.



DA SINISTRA: Camicia bianca e silk pullover, Gucci; shiny golden linen pants, Dolce & Gabbana; cappello, Marc Jacobs; black boots, Destroy @ Trash & Vaudeville; collane d'oro, Fenton USA e Alyssa Norton. PER LEI: Pants di pelle, Alexander McQueen; stivali, Jean Paul Gaultier; sciarpa di seta, Southpaw; catena con piume, Fenton USA. Gold metallic blazer, Dolce & Gabbana; white tuxedo shirt, Jean Paul Gaultier; brown leather pants, John Galliano; cintura bicolore, Roberto Cavalli; stivali, Odds



L'Uomo Vogue presents a man who is intense and at the same time aloof. In spite of his style jests, he is ultimately simple and grounded, confident of who he is.



DA SINISTRA: Camicia con ruches e pantaloni da smoking argento e nero, Roberto Cavalli; jacket, John Richmond; stivali, Cloak. PER LEI: Black cape, Vintage Loft; pantaloni, VPL. Military blazer, Carlo Pignatelli Outside; camicia bianca con plastron, Neil Barrett; pantaloni neri, John Richmond; cintura di pelle con fibbia gioiello, Roberto Cavalli. Blazer beige e pants, tutto Emporio Armani; band jacket, Odds



Upon reading (actually just looking at!) this magazine, I am more and more convinced of the viability of fashion photography as a visual art. L'Uomo Vogue raises images to the level of intimate moments - even portraits.

This editorial is only my first post on this fantastic find. Can't wait to share the rest!

Photography by Tom Munro
Fashion editor: Victoria Bartlett

Drawn home

Drawn home
By Miguel Paolo Celestial
Published in WestEast Magazine 25: Home, Fall 2008

A bed, a chair, and a window. Home is where we rest and where we dream even without mattresses and pillows. It is where our thoughts dwell, where days are measured by shadows, movement by rooms, and resolve by pauses between supper. Home is where the night dwindles, shaking the thick smell of dusk that glistens in our vision. There is no frame for our gaze towards tomorrow; home is wherever hope is nailed to our heart’s rafters.


"Remains of the Day" editorial from GQ Style 7: The Great British Male, Fall/Winter 2008. Photographed by Nathaniel Goldberg, styled by David Bradshaw.

Silk pajamas, Prada



Home. There must be more to it than the yearning for a place or a moment that could seal us off from the hectic demands of life, where we can shut out problems and curl into a long-sought sense of quiet. There must be more to it than the appeal of bearable routine and the safety of predictability. What is it about the concept of home that drives us on journeys just to find it? What makes it the sum of all our goals if not their reason?

Silk pajama top from a selection, Lanvin



At first mention, we think of home as a tin full of tokens we have brought back from our travels. A collection of little things like randomly pocketed pebbles, together with furniture and art, novelties and design pieces. It is a wall where we pin maps of past voyages and plot succeeding conquests, a den stashed with memories to be relived and shared.

Striped cotton pajamas, Ermenegildo Zegna



Home is waking up to smooth out rumpled sheets, clear our minds with coffee or tea, and listen to the first rustlings of the morning. Home is rising beside your loved one. In the evening, it is that glance around your neighborhood right before you turn your back, bolt the gate, and retreat into private living.

Silk pajamas from a selection, Giorgio Armani



Home is the entire length of an afternoon; to it we surrender the loose ends of our days. It is every part of a house and its surroundings as well as any place that our laughter and sighs inhabit. No matter how long and involving our adventures have been, there’s no place quite like it...

Cotton pajamas, Hawes & Curtis



Silk pajamas, Tom Ford

This editorial takes off from Dolce and Gabbana's pajama suits presented for Spring/Summer 2009. Read the full article

Of camels and editorials

From Details. CAMEL COATED: Photographs by Thomas Schenk

Suit and shirt by CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION. Tie by MISSONI. Shoes by CHURCH'S.

Camel hair clothing or camel-colored apparel comprise two editorials, respectively, from the August 2008 issue of Details and the Fall/Winter release of Fantastic Man. Notice the difference not only in the styling and photography, but also in the language of the text.



Jacket by TOMMY HILFIGER. Scarf by APC.



Clothing by POLO RALPH LAUREN. Belt by YVES SAINT LAUREN.



Clothing by BOSS SELECTION. Shoes by CHURCH'S.



MISSONI.



ISAAC MIZRAHI.



GIORGIO ARMANI.



Clothing by VALENTINO. Shoes by CHURCH'S.

Styling by Paul Stura, hair by Johnnie Sapong using Aveda Men, makeup by Charlotte Day for See Management.



From Fantastic Man. CAMEL GALORE: The multi-layered allure of a neck-to-toe camel outfit, edited by Jodie Barnes and photographed by Paul Wetherell.

Who knew there were this many shades of camel? There is so much green in the TOM FORD cashmere camel double-breasted coat to almost slip it off the camel chart. Here, it's worn on top of a brown-ish GIORGIO ARMANI herringbone suit jacket, a more oatmeal POLO RALPH LAUREN camel cashmere poloneck and a reddish camel silk scarf by LANVIN, which is tied here as a cravat. Meanwhile the gold in these POLO RALPH LAUREN camel trousers really shines through.



Wow, look at the orange of those JUNYA WATANABE camel cords! They are part of a look that is more modern man than (its) neighbor (on top). The CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION wool coat is treated with plastic and has a narrower lapel, while the classic camel suit-jacket by LANVIN is of a short length. Underneath, the caramel coloured poloneck is by BOSS BLACK, while the gold CARTIER watch is as close to camel as you can get in a timepiece.


Details only succeeds in one outfit: the one with Polo Ralph Lauren denim. In an effort to tone down the camel hair, the other combinations have only become slack and boring. Fantastic Man conquers the fabric with panache.

This is also what I mean when I said that Fantastic Man is more personal. Though the approach is conceptual - hence the color scheme - it welcomes the reader, while the images from Details appear more like shopfront installations that have the potential to assault passersby.

The absence of the model's personality allows room for the reader to project himself into the clothes, and the accompanying text offers usable information, and yes, even insight.

Wow indeed.