Fantastic Man: Double denim

Mr. Moses Manley, an art student and apparently also model and creative director of Shared Ballroom, appears in the pages of Fantastic Man for its feature on double denim.


It's the successful face of double denim, with a proud look from Calvin Klein Collection: a pale denim zip-fronted jacket and pin-tuck pleated jeans. Under the jacket is a white ribbed vest by American Apparel, and the denim shoes are by Soar. Here, the watch is from Cartier.

From 'Double denim', Fantastic Man No. 9, Spring Summer 2009
Photographed by Daniel Riera, Styled by Jodie Barnes




What a wonderful hue! Above are the Calvin Klein jacket and jeans, as they appeared on the runway. Together, they are almost better than an ensemble I featured before from Copenhagen Street Style.

Equally inspiring are the denim shoes, which make me look back on two pairs by Martin Margiela for his 2006 Spring collection.


Manley pulls off the double denim look with a Marc Jacobs pale denim jeans jacket, a pale-blue gauze cotton shirt and pale denim jeans, both from Raf by Raf Simons. The vintage denim shoes are by Acne. The watch is by Bell & Ross.

I wonder where I'll find that specific color. Until then, I guess I'll settle for darker, more typical shades.

Denim shirt and jeans, thrifted; thrifted belt, Structure; wax-treated messenger, Jack Spade

Complementary polka dots

I had already decided the night before that this Saturday would be another day for shorts. (I had cut down another pair of jeans the night before.) My mind made up, I went out of the shower to discover the sky dark and glowering. Hence the sweater.

Though the shorts came from a pair of baggy pants, I think the stiff and untailored effect goes well with a fit shirt. The tie as belt was likewise an afterthought - a way to make another rainy day a little bit happier.


Polka dot shirt, Topman; polka dot tie and tote, thrifted; jeans now denim shorts, Guess; sweater, Sisley; leather sneakers, Converse; gold watch, Omega Seamaster

New old denim shorts

So I was at Topman, fitting denim cargo shorts that I was about to purchase, before I remembered that I had so many pairs of jeans languishing in my cabinet.

I picked out this old pair, which, although weren't cargo pants, had the same exposed pocket detailing. At Manila's 30℃, the heat is no longer funny, and I think I should be wearing shorts as much as possible - like on weekends - not just because it's summer, but because it's already becoming uncomfortable. So I brought out my scissors and cutter to do the job.

I'd say not bad. I just have to bring them to the tailor to have the back part hemmed. Or maybe, since they're denim, I'd let the fabric fray...but then again, we're talking about shorts here - meaning not much length to spare.

Studded tee, Zara; denim shorts formerly known as jeans, Lee; leather belt, Izzue; sneakers, Surface to Air; leather duffel, thrifted; scarf, SM Department Store

Looking in my closet, I find more items to turn into summer companions - from denim to chinos and fatigues. I think I may soon be needing this pair of "power scissors". Now if only there were also handheld hemming devices.

As for tailored shorts, either I have my slacks altered or get the real thing.

Denim, tux, white tie, and Chucks

Well, not exactly. I got these embroidered, white leather Gucci sneakers from a thrift shop, which has recently moved to another location. (More on this soon.)

I wore them this morning, but changed the rest of my outfit for a little shoot this evening. Instead of tying the laces this way, I eased them from the top loops and tied the extra length round the shoes, as is now the fashion.

I wasn't really planning anything, but when I was fiddling around with my white cotton bow tie (no ready hooks!) while playing and rewinding YouTube clips on how to tie the impossible little things, somehow, I got it. (I bought the tie for a black-tie Vogue event, but I wasn't able to use it. I opted for a red, silk Gucci scarf instead.)

Since I was already wearing the tie over a short-sleeved blue and white polo shirt, I decided to try out a denim on denim combination. I put on this thrifted Gerani denim jacket, which was too loose, so I used a safety pin to fasten it, as what (I think) the stylist for the Fall 2009 show of Dries Van Noten did.

On hindsight, the jeans could have been darker and I could have worn black leather lace-ups or leather sneakers, but I think the top part of the outfit has it.

The jeans are good enough for this tuxedo coat I bought from a department store (it's actually priced almost the same as the cotton tie).

Better I think, if the shirt had a printed design similar to the Rorschach imprint left by the heat. No belt.

As an afterthought, and in line with my post on denim and layering, I put on the denim jacket on top of the tux coat.

Works well I think. Better even if my shirt had long sleeves so I could have rolled it under the coat. This time, black lace-ups would have been required, and maybe also a thin black leather belt. The jacket I'm now thinking I should alter for a slimmer fit.

Back to reality now and to the humidity returning this time of the year to Manila.

Night photos by Patricia Suzara

Denim on denim

The picture above was taken by Scott Schuman when he was in Paris.

The first thing you notice is the denim combination or perhaps the way his scarf is tied, then the khaki jacket and the way its sleeves are rolled up in tandem with the denim shirt. Then your eye focuses on the patch on the shirt and the worn fabric. After these, perhaps his bracelet and his hair. No matter where you start, you are convinced that this entire outfit works for its wearer.

I don't know who started saying it, but men.style.com repeated the alleged fashion rule that denim does not go with denim, allowing only the exception for a denim top that has approximately the same tone as its counterpart denim bottom.

Not so with this outfit. Of course, one may say that it is his khaki jacket and olive messenger that provided the necessary counterbalance for all that denim - even allowing the fashion "rule" to be broken.

But look at this second man, featured in Copenhagen Street Style. No khaki or olive or any hue near the color complement orange, and still, his outfit works.

Is it because his denim jacket and black cardigan are both rolled up like in the first picture? Yes, this helps, but what is more pertinent is the layering of his jacket, cardigan, and undershirt.

Not only do these three pieces vary in length - with his electric blue band cap (Did I mention only just now the best item in his outift?) and black boots - they follow a color gradient (black, navy blue, denim, electric blue). Isn't that just brilliant? A progression in both color and cut.

Fashion rules are silly, that is true, but then again, consider this: would both outfits work if the men weren't blond or brown-haired? Another rule...

Street fix: Whyred denim shirt

Weekend inspiration

The Blue Period by Milan Vukmirovic and The Sartorialist, editor-in-chief of L'Officiel Hommes and creative director of Trussardi 1911. Can't say too much about precision in detailing: string necklace matching the bracelet, eyeglasses consistent with the watch and belt, beautiful detailed jacket with Balmain biker denim. But what tops it all, I think, is the head-to-chin shave that chic-ens out tank-top chest hair.

More Vukmirovic street style by Tommy Ton on GQ




Jeremy leaves things hanging, from scarf and coat belt to bangs and tassels.




Model Jakob Hybholt does denim over knit.




Shearling and long johns: the best way to transition to autumn?




Or you could always keep cool with tabi boots and short shorts.




I wonder how long this color complement trend will last. Though of course, I think that was only a coincidence.




Like color clashing has always been the mode. Blue + yellow = ?




Well done. The boys should learn from la garçonne.

The second day of summer

Well, not today, but last Wednesday, and not in Manila, but in the US and other parts in the west. But does it matter where a season ends and where another one begins?

Just saying, since it's been quite a while since a pleasant summer visited the Philippines, and I suppose nothing's wrong with sharing in another hemisphere's joy. (We are, after all, still in the tropics and you can say summer is all year round.)




If there is only one thing that I attribute with summer it is ripe, yellow mangoes. The fatter the fruit flesh the better, and eaten by not slicing through the sweetness, but by peeling the skin entirely.

Yellow is also the theme I have chosen to bind another denim-on-denim outfit.




But since mangoes are out of season (yeah, yeah, seasons are there for a reason), I just settle for lemon tea, or something that I utterly enjoyed while I was in China: chrysanthemum!

Soaked in warm water, the bright yellow summer flower releases not just the memories of the sun (like dandelion in wine), but all the sensations of childhood.


Shirt, Topman; jeans, Calvin Klein Jeans; Claiborne belt and Blanche loafers: both thrifted; gold-plated automatic watch, vintage Omega Seamaster

Photos by Patricia Suzara

One for the road, from Liverpool

Just wanted to drop in to say hi. Yes I'm still alive.




Been feeling like this for the past few weeks. Getting used to the silence again.




Walk with me.


Photos from Hoy Fashion

Tiger's eye on denim

This is the first time I have worn my tiger's eye necklace and bracelet with my denim shirt — and I'm liking the color combination. I like the way the necklace can be placed behind the tie to suggest just a hint of decoration.

Philippine Fashion Week started yesterday. Am still expecting a show to lift up the uneventful mood. In the meantime, maybe I should go back to my looong Spring 2010 backlog...


Denim shirt and wool tie: both thrifted; jeans, Armani Exchange; filigree belt, Brave Beltworks; laceups, Marlboro Classics; PVC bag, 5cm; watch, Omega Seamaster. I am also carrying today's issue of the Financial Times and this semester's GQ Style

Photo by Patricia Suzara

Denim on Denim + Black Benedictine

Long after my first attempt at wearing denim on denim, I have finally found a suitable shirt for pairing.

Come to think of it, my penchant for denim-on-denim is in line with my taste for monochrome. Denim-on-denim being its most casual form.




I have accessoried this shirt by Topman with five steel beads hanging on the thinnest of necklaces. Don't want to interfere that much with strong and simple design.




The buttons are meant to resemble mother-of-pearl, much whiter than my coffee-stained not-so-pearly whites.

Shirt, Topman; jeans, Lee; filigree belt, Brave Beltworks; nylon sneakers, Tretorn x Acne; necklace, DIY




Days after, I wore this new necklace from my Sacre line of Bosquejo accessories. Named it Benedictine after the saint on the pendant.




Wore denim again, this time in black. Paired the Sacre necklace with another from the Djinn line, all in black.




I like how this one turned out looking like a striped shirt, with the colors of Charlie Brown's outfit.




Lee shirt and Izzue jeans: both thrifted; necklaces, Bosquejo; skinny belt, APC




I made this necklace thinking that this would first and foremost be masculine. And it is.




But that hasn't stopped my sister from wearing it. She appears today on my streetstyle blog, La Folie Douce, where you can see the rest of her outfit.


Cameos by Patricia Suzara

Flight, fur, and denim jackets, pinstriped blazers, a linen shirt, and more

First I saw it, then looked again, thinking it was ridiculous. Then I remembered December in -15 degree Beijing, wearing a puffer with fur on the hood. I didn't like that jacket that much. I could have worn this instead.




So of course I bought it, thinking of future (hopefully impending) trips. Just think deeply about it. Taste, but more sense: the label caught me off-guard as well.




This took less consideration. Looks like an old bag, used every day for years. Marked by places and turns of events. It weighs heavier though than your typical weekender.




According to Wiki, Avirex was fonded in 1975 to keep on producing traditional World War II-style pilot jackets, among other garments, issued to the then USAAF. I don't know why its website is currently out of commission.




This is what is on the lining. I suppose this is what the soldiers wore on their backs while they had folded pin-ups in their pockets. I wonder if the other members of the Allied Forces were as cheerful.




A closer look at the tag. 1978.




Now this part made me think twice if the jacket was genuine. Why Italy? And how did it reach Japan? (The thrift store I bought it in mostly had goods from Japan.)

Must admit the other tag contained something new for me. I suppose the jacket I got never went to the dry cleaners. Note that "old leather" is trademarked. Another cause for doubt.




There are parts where the leather is cracked and worn, but that didn't stop me. Another detail of note: the zipper with its leather pull-handle that matched the brand tag.




Now this picture doesn't do justice to this sheer pinstriped blazer for spring. Promise to show you in a future cameo. I love the double pinstripe with a very subtle cross-hatch.




But this is what really got me ecstatic (and I'm rarely ecstatic about anything) about this blazer: the double back vents and the flap that reminds me of doors for dogs in kitchens.

Can't wait to wear this blazer, which is perfect for summer. A dream actually for the coming seasonal furnace.




This is a heavier blazer, which perhaps should be confined to the office or during summer nights. It's in black and its"pinstripes" are actually white, red, and green dots.




Now, as with the fur and flight jackets, I've also never had a denim jacket before. Guess I was waiting for the right design, fit, and fabric. I never expected to find something I quite liked in a flea market.

What drew me to this were the vertical pleats beside the placket, together with the horizontal stitching. Also the the diagonal at the pocket. Seemingly very minor things that caught my eye.




I like the fact that the jacket is adjustable. Given that it already fits, the back buttons make good details.




A forest green wool tie (rightmost), a silk tie with a nice pattern, and a cord, which I plan on using as a belt.




Also found this beautiful obi (kimono not included). Originally thought of using it as fabric for pouches for my necklaces, but am still thinking about it since cutting up the fabric will be a shame.




Winding down, here is a linen shirt in a shade of chestnut or terra cotta, with mother of pearl buttons. Another find for summer.




And lastly, a cream-colored polo shirt which is part-shiny and part-sheer. Just the way I like it.