Fantastic Man: Double denim

Mr. Moses Manley, an art student and apparently also model and creative director of Shared Ballroom, appears in the pages of Fantastic Man for its feature on double denim.


It's the successful face of double denim, with a proud look from Calvin Klein Collection: a pale denim zip-fronted jacket and pin-tuck pleated jeans. Under the jacket is a white ribbed vest by American Apparel, and the denim shoes are by Soar. Here, the watch is from Cartier.

From 'Double denim', Fantastic Man No. 9, Spring Summer 2009
Photographed by Daniel Riera, Styled by Jodie Barnes




What a wonderful hue! Above are the Calvin Klein jacket and jeans, as they appeared on the runway. Together, they are almost better than an ensemble I featured before from Copenhagen Street Style.

Equally inspiring are the denim shoes, which make me look back on two pairs by Martin Margiela for his 2006 Spring collection.


Manley pulls off the double denim look with a Marc Jacobs pale denim jeans jacket, a pale-blue gauze cotton shirt and pale denim jeans, both from Raf by Raf Simons. The vintage denim shoes are by Acne. The watch is by Bell & Ross.

I wonder where I'll find that specific color. Until then, I guess I'll settle for darker, more typical shades.

Denim shirt and jeans, thrifted; thrifted belt, Structure; wax-treated messenger, Jack Spade

Raf Simons' pack of cards

Though it's easy to summon our memories of the classic The Invasion of the Body Snatchers to help make sense of these shrugs in knit, neoprene, and other hi-tech fabrics seemingly taking over the sartorially strict suits of Raf Simons' Fall 2009 collection, I would rather focus on their exaggerated silhouettes.

Sometimes the subtext is not at all engaging, and introspection can get way over our heads.



Alice in Wonderland was the first thing that came to mind, and the boxy minions of the Queen of Hearts.



The shrugs look like the armory of soldiers getting ready for an absurd battle, or trial, in the case of Alice who was about to lose her own head.





I just wanted to ask you which way I ought to go.





Well, that depends on where you want to get to.





Oh it really doesn't matter...





Then it really doesn't matter which way you go.



Does this silhouette bring fashion forward? Or is it simply part of a pack of commercial cards?



Perhaps these two-tone coats and suits are more viable, with style that is more ironclad.





They look strong and believable, and beautifully period.





With a toned down silhouette, these suits hold the promise of real direction for fashion.







The color binaries take on subtlety in leather gloves, a camel coat with flannel lapels, and a flannel coat with camel sleeves.





Now these single and double breasted suits and coats are more like it.





An unintrusive shrug.



No sharing?





Though I really still don't understand the armory. A black and white Dick Tracy yes, but not an Iron Man suit that can be assembled.

AnOther Man: Untitled editorial in red

The idea of wearing bandages as tops isn't knew. Pieces by Raf Simons in this shoot may have in fact been influenced by old artisanal articles by Martin Margiela. Coincidentally, new clothes by the Belgian designer appear alongside the "new" bandage tops by Simons. I take it as homage.


Rubber bandage (worn as top), Expectations
Untitled editorial from AnOther Man 7, Autumn/Winter 2008
Photography by Mark Segal, Styling by Alister Mackie

I think it's no coincidence that the archive-inspired bandage tops appear in the same editorial as these vintage cropped shirts by Vivienne Westwood, which are very 80s. The reference, of course, is Britain during that era and the Sex Pistol's Johnny Rotten.


Patterned jacket and tartan trousers, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus; lycra t-shirt, vintage Sex by Vivienne Westwood from Rellik; patent leather high tops by Reebok by Juun J

How else can Portobello and Rick Owens mix?

Military cap and reversible tartan jacket, Portobello market; long sleeve fine jersey t-shirts, Rick Owens; torn t-shirt, Wasteland; high waisted trousers, Yohji Yamamoto

Rubber bodysuit, Expectations; padlock pendant necklace and bracelet, TEM; Dead End pendant necklace, Atelier 11; high waisted trousers, Yohji Yamamoto; leather belt, Julius

Even the check shirts are cropped. Red tartans look good with other patterns in black. Again, as in a past editorial I posted, this outfit will not be as effective if the model weren't blond.


Three button fitted jacket and silk pocket square, Yves Saint Laurent; checked shirt, Angels; trousers, Gucci



And as precocious looking.

Oversized mohair tank top and jersey shorts, Rick Owens; rubber collar, Expectations

With that sensual defiance in his eyes.

Leather biker jacket archive, Jitrois; checked shirt, Diesel; torn t-shirt, Wasteland; Dead End pin, Atelier 11; padlock chain and safety pin necklaces, TEM

And yes! Red pants. I don't know if I will dare, but just look at these pairs!


Brick print jacket, Maison Martin Margiels; bandage top and collar, Raf Simons; bullet pendant necklace, TEM; trousers, Prada

Knotted rubber waistcoat, Maison Martin Margiela; trousers, Jil Sander; silver ring, Atelier 11

Nothing really as blatant as that color. You will need all the patterns at hand, and especially the color black, to tame it.


Lycra t-shirt, vintage Sex by Vivienne Westwood from Rellik; trousers, Filippa K; patterened silk scarves, Gucci; bandanas, Rokit

Tartan tuxedo jacket, Vivienne Westwood Man; tartan shirt, Wasteland; padlock chain, TEM; marbled trousers, Jil Sander

And this, this is just bloody fabulous.

Bandage top and saftey pin brooch, Raf Simons

Volume and severity: Jil Sander + Gianfranco Ferré

Pitting pieces from these two collections against each other produces a veritable clash between two expressionistic titans.



Giant coats and knit mufflers confront a supressed waistline and rounded shoulders.



Clearly, these big silhouettes and seemingly unforgiving outfits were made for a new breed of Masters of the Universe.



Though not all ensembles are excessive; some merely impose a sartorial discipline.



Left: Gianfranco Ferré, right: Jil Sander





Between technological innovations in synthetic or mixed fabrics come these seductive jackets.







Herringbone and black-and-white knits serve to tone down grand statements.



So do the cut of these jackets.



With these brave suggestions, one may think fashion is never called to stay within the limits of the social climate.