FT How to Spend It: White rider

Apologies for the dodgy quality of images; have time enough to take photos and not scan. Besides, don't you think that the semi-sepia quality the light gives this editorial enhances period feel? I don't know why, but I get the vibe of the depressing 30s. Is it the bikes?


Theo wears embroidered evening Dylan jacket by Gucci; jeans by Kilgour; t-shirt (just seen) by Homino Emerito by Mango; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten; leather belt and leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Madeleine wears linen Metador Bolero with ruffles on the back and silk Cuff trousers, both by Phillip Lim; silk top by Roberto Cavalli; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel; leather brogues by Church's

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson, Styling by Damian Foxe

Extremes have always appealed to me: from all black to all white, even all beige and gray. There's just an unavoidably dashing air to the neutral monochrome.


Wiktor (left) wears Jacquard cotton Dylan jacket, Jacquard cotton Havana trousers, and white leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle: all by Gucci; cotton shirt by Thomas Pink; leather snake-effect ankle boots by Paul Smith. Hampus wears Jacquard cotton evening Dylan jacket and Jacquard evening Havana trousers, both by Gucci; leather loafers by J by J Jasper Conran from Debenhams

And did I mention how I just adore the hairstyles and the hint of androgyny? I wonder if all the models are blondes, or have they been bleached?

Madeleine wears cotton Catrin shirt by Thomas Pink; cotton trousers by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

The tailoring is of course impeccable. After white pants, I certainly intend to wear white jackets and blazers.


Wiktor (leftmost) wears cashmere blazer from Brioni; jeans by Kilgour; cotton shirt by Versace; leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Hampus (centre) wears cotton and cashmere three-piece suit by Ermenegildo Zegna; knitted silk scarf by Kilgour; leather Nobel brogues by Grenson from Matches. Theo wears cotton and cashmere suit and cotton and silk blend shirt, both by Ermenegildo Zegna; leather shoes by Camper

Can it just be the romance of the Old World, of past eras?

Madeleine wears cotton organza blouse with jabot by Gianfranco Ferré; cotton trousers (just seen) by Paul Smith

Or the glamour of previous decades translated for the present one?

Theo wears cotton jacket, cotton trousers, white and navy jersey (just seen), and suede shoes: all by Bottega Veneta; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten

It's amazing how men's shoes like brogues work so well when appropriated by womenswear.

Madeleine wear cotton sweater by John Smedley; silk trousers by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton embroidered cravat by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

Theo (left) wears silk suit jacket, matching trousers, and silk sweater: all by Dolce & Gabbana. Wiktor wears silk suit jacket and silk suit trousers, both by Dolce & Gabbana; silk and cotton Joery sweater by Dries Van Noten; leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle by Gucci

Silk, jacquard, jersey, cashmere, leather, mohair, hemp, satin, suede: they're all here in one wonderful mix. How can you not love the power of monochrome to bring them all together?


Hampus (far left) wears mohair and wool jacket and cashmere waistcoat, both by Kilgour; ribbed cotton long-sleeve t-shirt and hemp trousers, both by Ann Demeulemeester; leather shoes by Giorgio Armani. Madeleine wears viscose vest by Burberry; satin trousers by Chanel; silks carf (around hips) by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's. Wiktor wears cotton jacket, hemp waistcoat, and cotton trousers: all by Ann Demeulemeester; cotton sweater by John Smedley; leather and suede trainers by Tim Little

Hampus wears cotton suit by Emporio Armani; cotton-mix Jartha cardigan by Dries Van Noten; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel

Only thing is, of course, I don't think you can ride your bike on any street wearing these outifts if you want to keep your single-colored ensemble until you get home.


Madeleine wears silk shantung waistcoat by Stella McCartney; silk crepe trousers by Maria Grachvogel; silk scarf scarf by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's

Black in Berlin

Well, not exactly. Images also from Copenhagen and Paris fashion weeks, taken for Stil in Berlin.

Berlin Fashion Week, Timo, 20, writer
Jacket, blazer, shirt, and brooch: all vintage; jeans, H&M; shoes, Vagabond

No matter how many bright and jewel colors were presented in the Fall 2009 menswear shows, I suppose many still prefer commiserating with the weather.

Weinmeisterstraße: Georg, 20, student
Jacket and shoes, Cos; jeans, Cheap Monday; shoes, H&M

Berlin Fashion Week, Paul, 21, model
Pilot jacket, vintage; shirt and boots, Ann Demeulemeester; jeans, Levi's; necklace, self-made

Darryl Natale for SiB - Steinstraße, Charlie, shop attendant
Cap, shoes, and scarf: all vintage; glasses, Theo; jacket, Ann Demeulemeester; skirt, Comme des Garçons; bag, custom-made

Paris Fashion Week, Marcelo, 32, senior fashion editor for Rodeo Magazine from Patagonia, Argentina
Original Patagonian poncho and hat; jacket, Alexander McQueen; shirt, Givenchy; jeans, April 77; shoes, Yves Saint Laurent; belt, Jil Sander

Weinmeisterstraße: Sebastian, 21, student from Uppsala
Jacket, Acne; cardigan, boots, and pendant: all by Ann Demeulemeester; tank, Rick Owens; jeans, April 77; scarf, Julius; gloves, Monki

Paris Fashion Week, Andrew, 24, architect from Copenhagen
Hat, Label Under Construction; jacket, t-shirts, pants, boots, and gloves: all Rick Owens; scarf, Faliero Sarti

Paris Fashion Week, Daniel Thawley, 20, model and stylist from London
Hat, vintage; hoodie, shirts, and pants: all Rick Owens; boots and pendant, Ann Demeulemeester; scarf, self-made; gloves, Marc Jacobs; bracelet, Dior

Paris Fashion Week, Corc Demir, 17, student from Cologne
Jacket and necklace, vintage; shirt and bag, H&M; jeans, Cheap Monday; shoes, Goetz; glasses, Davidoff

Paris Fashion Week, Sergio, 25, editor from Berlin
Jacket, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair; boots, Ann Demeuelemeester; shirt, Acne; pants, Helmut Lang; scarf, Thanks Max; belt, HTC

Copenhagen Fashion Week, Rune, 29, trend scout (Outside Wood Wood)
Jacket, trousers, hat, bowtie, and bag: all vintage; cardigan, Filippa K; shirt, Yves Saint Laurent; shoes; Givenchy

Fantastic Man goes nude and naked

Set at Maspalomas, "one of Spain's most delightful hot spots for naturists", this Fantastic Man editorial (with the same title) for its 2010 Spring Summer issue is one of the most subtle and muted layouts I've seen.


Mr. James Wells is a London resident of northern origins, who works on Savile Row and in his spare time enjoys a good game of Scrabble. Here he waves a hearty welcome wearing a flesh-coloured vest with a nice trim by Petar Petrov and trousers from Cos that sit super-flat and boast a deliciously precise waist band. Strangely, felsh- and nude-coloured clothes are favoured by many a designer yet rarely make it to the shop floor.

Photography by Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Styling by Jodie Barnes




James is with his kind in a nude-tone suit by Calvin Klein Collection, worn with nothing underneath




The shirt underneath is me blushing.


James is wearing a suit by Ann Demeulemeester that benefits from an extra buttonhole detail halfway up the lapel. The shirt in a slightly pinker tone is by Wooyoungmi




My perfect combination! I should try this out soon. Got to admit that the delectably thin belt is likewise "better than naked".


Both nude and sheer: one of fashion's bravest combinations. James pulls it off in a Duckie Brown shirt, worn with Paul Smith trousers and a Tillman Lauterbach belt




But this shows that with the right trouser details, belt can be freely eschewed.


At the beach bar with some German tourist friends (not shown here), James is dressed for cocktail hour in an ingeniously seamed shirt by Lanvin and Kenzo trousers with a pocket so proud it comes with its ow button



James wears a flesh-tone vest from American Apparel. Complementing both the vest and his legs are shorts by Tillman Laueterbach




The beauty visible all around requires a cigarette for full contemplation. For the occasion, James is wearing a shirt by Giorgio Armani and trousers by Missoni




This is the first time I've heard of Tillman Lauterbach. Take a peek at the Fall 2010 collection and you'll see that the nude theme may have been mostly or partially inspired by him.


James relaxes on the beach, his outfit benefitting from a beautiful tonal contrast. He's looking very handsome in a polo shirt from Fred Perry and track pants by Tillman Lauterbach

FT How to Spend It: The Spirit of Christmas Past

If you must ask, the answer is no, I haven't watched the 3-D Jim Carrey movie based on Charles Dickens's story. What I have done is start to actually feel the season — no matter how big a Scrooge I could be.


Calle (left) wears asymmetric wool coat and grain de poudre trousers: both by Dior Homme; cotton shirt, Ann Demeulemeester; leather ankle boots, Nicole Farhi; round black acetate spectacle frames (copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company.


Interesting how this editorial from How to Spend It transports Dickens to the present era of of British cool and experimentation. Apologies though for not being able to scan the entire pictures (esp the shoes!) since the format of the magazine is quite huge. (Visit howtospendit.com for the interactive experience.)


Aeneas (right) wear cashmere coat, Z Zegna; stretch wool flannel jacket, silk cotton shirt, cotton piqué jersey trousers, and leather army boots: all by Kris Van Assche; silver and black Algha round eye spectacle frames, made to measure from The Eye Company

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson
Styling by Damian Foxe




Don't you just love the glasses?


Christian (right) wears flannel blazer, Bottega Veneta; tweed waistcoat and leather ankle boots: both by Nicole Farhi; cotton button-front long-sleeved t-shirt, John Varvatos from Matches; wool trousers, Dior Homme; silk flower pin, Lanvin; black pearl necklace, Tawny Phillips; Anglo-American c1980 vintage round tortoiseshell spectacle frames copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company

Mattias (left) wears wool doeskin cape, wool doeskin jacket with velvet collar, matching pleated trousers, cotton poplin smock shirt: all by Burberry Prorsum; leather boots, Z Zegna; black acetate spectacle frames (copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company




Honestly, I never imagined pieces by Miharayasuhiro to be included in such a theme, but it works.


Mattias (right) wears wool and silk morning coat, Stowers Bespoke; wool jacket and matching trousers with metal detail: both by Gucci; cotton dress shirt, Alexander McQueen; silk bow tie, Lanvin; leather boots, Miharayasuhiro; Châtelaine Game reclaimed metal chain accessory with vintage pieces, Maria Zureta; silver and black Algha round eye spectacle frames, made to measure from The Eye Company

Calle (left) wears cashmere overcoat, Dunhill; wool frock coat, cotton/silk short, and leather waistcoat: all by Number (N)ine; cotton/rayon trousers Ann Demeulemeester; leather boots, Yves Saint Laurent; vintage gold filled round c1930 spectacle frames, The Eye Company





Christian wears wool tweed overcoat and matching wool-mix trousers: both by Prada; cotton dress shirt, Brioni; wool sleeveless cardigan and leather boots: both by Yves Saint Laurent; black acetate round spectacle frames (copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company




Miharayasuhiro again, with his studded shoes (notice the Prada equivalent was eschewed).


Aenas (left) wears cotton and silk jacket, cotton cardigan, and cotton trousers: all by Lanvin; cotton poplin smock shirt, Burberry Prorsum; studded leather shoes, Miharayasuhiro; silver and black Algha round eye spectacle frames, made to measure from The Eye Company

Christian (center) wears wool jacket with embroidered collar and wool trousers: both by Ann Demeulemeester; wool cardigan waistcoat, Miharayasuhiro; silk scarf, Nicole Farhi; leather and ponyskin boots, Ann Demeulemeester; black round acetate frames (copy from 1920s original), The Eye Company; wood and silver cane, Alexander McQueen

Mattias (right) wears cashmere coat, cotton shirt, and cashmere tweed trousers: all by Z Zegna; leather ankle boots, Nicole Farhi; black round acetate spectacle frames (copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company




I love the idea of reclaimed objects, much in the spirit of Maison Martin Margiela.


Aeneas wears wool and cashmere ID jacket, Coreliani; cotton/wool waistcoat, Paul Smith; cotton linen smock shirt and wool tweed trousers: both by Burberry Prorsum; reclaimed metal chain necklace with antique watch faces, Maria Zureta; vintage c1930 gold filled round spectacle frames, The Eye Company




Aeneas (left) wears wool caped jacket, waxed Jacquard trousers, silk waistcoat, and cotton dress shirt: all by Alexander McQueen; wool hat, Ann Demeulemeester; leather ankle boots, Nicole Farhi; silver and black Algha round eye spectacle frames, made to measure from The Eye Company

Christian (right) wears wool frock coat, wool waistcoat, and wool trousers (part of a suit): all by Paul Smith; cotton dress shirt, Dunhill; felt hat, John Varvatos from Matches; black round acetate spectacle frames (copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company; leather boots, Yves Saint Laurent; wood and silver cane, Alexander McQueen




This image is probably the most modern, thanks to the incredible jacket.


Calle wears cashmere jacket, Hermès; tweed cashmere turtleneck sweater, Bottega Veneta; wool-mix trousers, Prada; leather boots, Yves Saint Laurent; 14ct pince-nez c1900 spectacle frames, The Eye Company; wood and silver cane, Alexander McQueen