FT How to Spend It: White rider

Apologies for the dodgy quality of images; have time enough to take photos and not scan. Besides, don't you think that the semi-sepia quality the light gives this editorial enhances period feel? I don't know why, but I get the vibe of the depressing 30s. Is it the bikes?


Theo wears embroidered evening Dylan jacket by Gucci; jeans by Kilgour; t-shirt (just seen) by Homino Emerito by Mango; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten; leather belt and leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Madeleine wears linen Metador Bolero with ruffles on the back and silk Cuff trousers, both by Phillip Lim; silk top by Roberto Cavalli; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel; leather brogues by Church's

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson, Styling by Damian Foxe

Extremes have always appealed to me: from all black to all white, even all beige and gray. There's just an unavoidably dashing air to the neutral monochrome.


Wiktor (left) wears Jacquard cotton Dylan jacket, Jacquard cotton Havana trousers, and white leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle: all by Gucci; cotton shirt by Thomas Pink; leather snake-effect ankle boots by Paul Smith. Hampus wears Jacquard cotton evening Dylan jacket and Jacquard evening Havana trousers, both by Gucci; leather loafers by J by J Jasper Conran from Debenhams

And did I mention how I just adore the hairstyles and the hint of androgyny? I wonder if all the models are blondes, or have they been bleached?

Madeleine wears cotton Catrin shirt by Thomas Pink; cotton trousers by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

The tailoring is of course impeccable. After white pants, I certainly intend to wear white jackets and blazers.


Wiktor (leftmost) wears cashmere blazer from Brioni; jeans by Kilgour; cotton shirt by Versace; leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Hampus (centre) wears cotton and cashmere three-piece suit by Ermenegildo Zegna; knitted silk scarf by Kilgour; leather Nobel brogues by Grenson from Matches. Theo wears cotton and cashmere suit and cotton and silk blend shirt, both by Ermenegildo Zegna; leather shoes by Camper

Can it just be the romance of the Old World, of past eras?

Madeleine wears cotton organza blouse with jabot by Gianfranco Ferré; cotton trousers (just seen) by Paul Smith

Or the glamour of previous decades translated for the present one?

Theo wears cotton jacket, cotton trousers, white and navy jersey (just seen), and suede shoes: all by Bottega Veneta; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten

It's amazing how men's shoes like brogues work so well when appropriated by womenswear.

Madeleine wear cotton sweater by John Smedley; silk trousers by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton embroidered cravat by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

Theo (left) wears silk suit jacket, matching trousers, and silk sweater: all by Dolce & Gabbana. Wiktor wears silk suit jacket and silk suit trousers, both by Dolce & Gabbana; silk and cotton Joery sweater by Dries Van Noten; leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle by Gucci

Silk, jacquard, jersey, cashmere, leather, mohair, hemp, satin, suede: they're all here in one wonderful mix. How can you not love the power of monochrome to bring them all together?


Hampus (far left) wears mohair and wool jacket and cashmere waistcoat, both by Kilgour; ribbed cotton long-sleeve t-shirt and hemp trousers, both by Ann Demeulemeester; leather shoes by Giorgio Armani. Madeleine wears viscose vest by Burberry; satin trousers by Chanel; silks carf (around hips) by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's. Wiktor wears cotton jacket, hemp waistcoat, and cotton trousers: all by Ann Demeulemeester; cotton sweater by John Smedley; leather and suede trainers by Tim Little

Hampus wears cotton suit by Emporio Armani; cotton-mix Jartha cardigan by Dries Van Noten; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel

Only thing is, of course, I don't think you can ride your bike on any street wearing these outifts if you want to keep your single-colored ensemble until you get home.


Madeleine wears silk shantung waistcoat by Stella McCartney; silk crepe trousers by Maria Grachvogel; silk scarf scarf by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's

Numéro Homme: Splash

Summer, it seems, is here - at least for bi-annual magazines. And even if all the outfits are tuxedos, the dominant color is still blue.


Veste et pantalon de smoking, chemise à plastron, ceinture, nœud papillon et pochette, Yves Saint Laurent; boots, Louis Vuitton

'Splash' from Numéro Homme, Printemps-été 2009

Veste de smoking et chemise du soir à col cassé, nœud papillon en soie et pochette, Giorgio Armani

Break free from tedious uniforms. Penguins, after all, enjoy a good swim.


Veste et pantalon des smoking, Prada; derbys, Louis Vuitton

Summer!


Veste et pantalon de smoking en soie, chemise, nœud papillon et pochette à pois, D&G

Come prepared for unexpected soaks.


Veste de smoking et chemise à col cassé, nœud papillon en soie et boutons de machette, Gianfranco Ferre; maillot de bain, Dolce & Gabbana

Though there should be a limit to chlorine.


Veste du soir, chemise à poignets mousquetaire et nœud papillon, Dolce & Gabbana; slip de bain, Speedo

Savor it while it's still here.


Veste de smoking, chemise, nœud papillon et pochette en soie, Carlo Pignatelli

Par Matthias Vriens
Réalisation, Timothy Reukauf

Volume and severity: Jil Sander + Gianfranco Ferré

Pitting pieces from these two collections against each other produces a veritable clash between two expressionistic titans.



Giant coats and knit mufflers confront a supressed waistline and rounded shoulders.



Clearly, these big silhouettes and seemingly unforgiving outfits were made for a new breed of Masters of the Universe.



Though not all ensembles are excessive; some merely impose a sartorial discipline.



Left: Gianfranco Ferré, right: Jil Sander





Between technological innovations in synthetic or mixed fabrics come these seductive jackets.







Herringbone and black-and-white knits serve to tone down grand statements.



So do the cut of these jackets.



With these brave suggestions, one may think fashion is never called to stay within the limits of the social climate.

L'Uomo Vogue: Exuberant excess

I find it silly how the financial crisis has given people excuses to tone down "excess" for the sake of appearing sympathetic. I mean, you only should if your existing level of compensation and incentives have been part of the vehicle that drove economies to hardship. If not, why pretend?

White tuxedo, Ermenegildo Zegna; smoking nero, Hugo Boss Black; giacca bianca con collo a scialle, Brioni; camicia, Del Siena; smoking con camicia, Gianfranco Ferré; cappa dorata, Norma Kamali @ Resurrection

Besides, how can you miss out on such a lovely scarf?

From L'Uomo Vogue, January 2006
Photos by Greg Kadel

Bosquejo Bazaar: Helmut Lang + Gianfranco Ferré + Cesare Paciotti

Don Protasio, a Filipino designer based in Cambodia, requested this pair of Helmut Langs from my last Bosquejo Bazaar post, but unfortunately, they were no longer there when I returned to the vintage store. I hope I can make it up to him with another pair from my most recent finds.

These next three pairs may not be in as good a condition as the Helmuts, but I think, exactly because they're this worn in, they're more fun to use casually.

These pointy Gianfranco Ferré (size 42 or 9) laceups, for example, are good with jeans — the more distressed, ripped, and worn in the better.

This next pair (size 44) is made from Italy, marked with the brand Varié. Though they can be just as good as denim, I imagine these shoes being more friendly with cords.

Now this, this pair by Cesare Paciotti (size 7), I really do not know how to explain. I found them in the sneakers rack. Who can blame the salesclerks?

The mix of the elements is so uncanny, I have to shake myself from staring so I can begin imagining how to wear them. They're obviously the most weathered among the three, so I think they should actually be used in the place of sneakers.

With khaki shorts on a sunny weekend!


If any of you readers from Manila are interested, just drop me a line via a comment or through email so I can get them for you. Don't let them slip out of your hands this time...

Gianfranco Ferré takes it fur-ther

Who can miss these fur capes that look like enlarged stoles, lengthening under jackets? (Maybe they are stoles.) Besides the fact that one does not expect them from Gianfranco Ferré, many would entirely not expect them on men.

Who can deny what they do — besides of course to provide warmth — for the silhouette, and for the swagger of the man who wears them? In this pair, the fit of the trousers and the biker boots add to the enigma.




What comes to mind is The Polar Express (I didn't watch it. It just sounds right.), The Chronicles of Narnia, and some dated Russian spy film. The sleek fur vest is the worthy male version of the common hairy fur vest for women. Notice how the sash-like strip on the trench looks like a cummerbund.




Though the sleeveless fur number on the left is reminiscent of Gareth Pugh, the use of the cummerbund is not. Why are there diamonds on the sleeves? A kind of puffer? Leather and fur belong together.




The use of gray on gray reminds me of Thom Browne, but again, it is the stole that makes the difference.




From stole and vest to sweater and muffler.




With a belt or under a cummerbund. Or maybe fastened as a wrap.




Love the plaid tie, even if I'm not as excited about the grizzly lining. The guy on the right could be coming from a ski chalet. Notice that the leather vest is tightened by a drawstring.




The pelt in colors for evening wear.




A furless silhouette.




Yes, plaid-on-plaid is not new, but doesn't this interpretation look spiffy?



So the cut reminds you of other designers, but hey, everybody's gotta sell.




Even this fur sweater underneath recalls Miuccia's mohair, but did she put a belt over it?