Black in Berlin

Well, not exactly. Images also from Copenhagen and Paris fashion weeks, taken for Stil in Berlin.

Berlin Fashion Week, Timo, 20, writer
Jacket, blazer, shirt, and brooch: all vintage; jeans, H&M; shoes, Vagabond

No matter how many bright and jewel colors were presented in the Fall 2009 menswear shows, I suppose many still prefer commiserating with the weather.

Weinmeisterstraße: Georg, 20, student
Jacket and shoes, Cos; jeans, Cheap Monday; shoes, H&M

Berlin Fashion Week, Paul, 21, model
Pilot jacket, vintage; shirt and boots, Ann Demeulemeester; jeans, Levi's; necklace, self-made

Darryl Natale for SiB - Steinstraße, Charlie, shop attendant
Cap, shoes, and scarf: all vintage; glasses, Theo; jacket, Ann Demeulemeester; skirt, Comme des Garçons; bag, custom-made

Paris Fashion Week, Marcelo, 32, senior fashion editor for Rodeo Magazine from Patagonia, Argentina
Original Patagonian poncho and hat; jacket, Alexander McQueen; shirt, Givenchy; jeans, April 77; shoes, Yves Saint Laurent; belt, Jil Sander

Weinmeisterstraße: Sebastian, 21, student from Uppsala
Jacket, Acne; cardigan, boots, and pendant: all by Ann Demeulemeester; tank, Rick Owens; jeans, April 77; scarf, Julius; gloves, Monki

Paris Fashion Week, Andrew, 24, architect from Copenhagen
Hat, Label Under Construction; jacket, t-shirts, pants, boots, and gloves: all Rick Owens; scarf, Faliero Sarti

Paris Fashion Week, Daniel Thawley, 20, model and stylist from London
Hat, vintage; hoodie, shirts, and pants: all Rick Owens; boots and pendant, Ann Demeulemeester; scarf, self-made; gloves, Marc Jacobs; bracelet, Dior

Paris Fashion Week, Corc Demir, 17, student from Cologne
Jacket and necklace, vintage; shirt and bag, H&M; jeans, Cheap Monday; shoes, Goetz; glasses, Davidoff

Paris Fashion Week, Sergio, 25, editor from Berlin
Jacket, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair; boots, Ann Demeuelemeester; shirt, Acne; pants, Helmut Lang; scarf, Thanks Max; belt, HTC

Copenhagen Fashion Week, Rune, 29, trend scout (Outside Wood Wood)
Jacket, trousers, hat, bowtie, and bag: all vintage; cardigan, Filippa K; shirt, Yves Saint Laurent; shoes; Givenchy

L'Uomo Vogue

I had written about Vogue Italia before, featuring their covers from various decades and also praising both the editorial vision and the personal style of its editor, Franca Sozzani, but I had never realized that its men's counterpart, L'Uomo Vogue, was such a breathtaking magazine.

Folie Bizzare, from L'Uomo Vogue January 2006

Camicia bianca di fiandra, B>More; striped pants, Givenchy; lace scarf, Southpaw; stivali da motociclista, Odds; collana, Kt. PER LEI: Ivory frac jacket, Jean Paul Gaultier; jeans, As Four



Camicia di denim con plastron, Neil Barrett; painted jeans, Polo Ralph Lauren; navy cord, Fenton USA; foulard in vita, Southpaw; pointed boots, Destroy @ Trash and Vaudeville. PER LEI: Pants di pelle e stivali, Daryl K



From the few issues that I have, I was awed by the way it captured past and present eras (in this case, projecting a future one) with the decadence of emotion, but practicing enough restraint to render its images possible, near to wearable.



DA SINISTRA: Camicia bianca e silk pullover, Gucci; shiny golden linen pants, Dolce & Gabbana; cappello, Marc Jacobs; black boots, Destroy @ Trash & Vaudeville; collane d'oro, Fenton USA e Alyssa Norton. PER LEI: Pants di pelle, Alexander McQueen; stivali, Jean Paul Gaultier; sciarpa di seta, Southpaw; catena con piume, Fenton USA. Gold metallic blazer, Dolce & Gabbana; white tuxedo shirt, Jean Paul Gaultier; brown leather pants, John Galliano; cintura bicolore, Roberto Cavalli; stivali, Odds



L'Uomo Vogue presents a man who is intense and at the same time aloof. In spite of his style jests, he is ultimately simple and grounded, confident of who he is.



DA SINISTRA: Camicia con ruches e pantaloni da smoking argento e nero, Roberto Cavalli; jacket, John Richmond; stivali, Cloak. PER LEI: Black cape, Vintage Loft; pantaloni, VPL. Military blazer, Carlo Pignatelli Outside; camicia bianca con plastron, Neil Barrett; pantaloni neri, John Richmond; cintura di pelle con fibbia gioiello, Roberto Cavalli. Blazer beige e pants, tutto Emporio Armani; band jacket, Odds



Upon reading (actually just looking at!) this magazine, I am more and more convinced of the viability of fashion photography as a visual art. L'Uomo Vogue raises images to the level of intimate moments - even portraits.

This editorial is only my first post on this fantastic find. Can't wait to share the rest!

Photography by Tom Munro
Fashion editor: Victoria Bartlett

Numéro Homme: Nightclubbing

'Nightclubbing' from Numéro Homme 17 Printemps-été 2009
Par Miguel Reveriego, Réalisation: Serge Girardi

Foulard riveté en coton, Givenchy par Riccardo Tisci; lunettes, Dior Homme

Fantastic colors and combinations, but I can't help but imagine taking each separate piece from these outfits and incorporating them into everyday wear. Like this red jacket with jeans.

Veste en jersey technique fluo, Calvin Klein Collection; t-shirt imprimé, Lucien Pellat-Finet; leggings, American Apparel

Veste zippée en Néoprene, Thierry Mugler; t-shirt, Nike; pantalon en cuir, Dirk Bikkembergs Sport Couture

In this case, maybe just the shorts. This purple and aqua leather jacket looks sweet as candy.

Blouson en cuir tie and dye, Gucci; débardeur gansé en coton, Roberto Cavalli; short technique perforé, Nike; lunettes, Ray-Ban

On the other hand, these Ray-Ban and Dior Homme shades should only be worn with neons and fluorescents, or maybe even pastel, but the colorful palettes must be kept.

Blouson à capuche en vinyle, Emporio Armani; lunettes, Dior Homme

The Dior goggles go better with nylon, neoprene, and other technically enhanced fabrics.



Oh, and don't forget Damien Hirst. He can rock any fabric.

Veste en vinyle, Guiliano Fujiwara; débardeur en coton et lunettes, Dior Homme; jean imprimé, Levi's limited edition Damien Hirst

Blouson en cuir verni et lunettes, Dior Homme

Even though the Cyclops (the mythical creature) doesn't really see that far, this trend may be worth the narrow enjoyment.

Blouson et toile de Nylon, Moncler; t-shirt, Lucien Pellat-Finet; lunettes, Dior Homme

Space odyssey

Leather, vinyl, glass, and feathers: interesting that a combination of the natural and the man-made can bring about a futuristic vision.

Pull rebrodé de plumes, Burberry Prorsum

From 'Space Odyssey', Numéro Homme, Automne-hiver 2008-2009

Longue cape en cachmire doublé de soie, Ralph Lauren Black Label; blouson en cuir verni et pantalon de smoking, Dior Homme

Robe en tulle et vinyle, Chanel; blouson en cuir verni et pantalon de smoking, Dior Homme; lunettes, Maison Martin Margiela

Blouson en cuir, Givenchy; ceinture vernie, Prada; pantalon en cuir, Dior Homme

Veste en drap de laine, Maison Martin Margiela; mitaines, Causse; veste queue-de-pie en drap de laine et ottoman, Ralph Lauren Black Label; plastron en soie et Lurex, Prada

Gilet en drap de laine brodé de métal, Gucci

Par Karl Lagerfeld, Réalisation: Serge Girardi




More leather pieces from Dior Homme's Kris Van Assche-designed Fall 2008 collection.











Compared to Hedi Slimane, Kris Van Assche is more interested in MC Hammer than in harem pants.





Van Assche modifies this by bunching up the pleats over the waist.



These trousers are perfect for moon walking.

This post is part of a set in reply to a query by Nihaal Faizal from India on the topic of his sketches and on science fiction

Men's lace

Pop magazine's 80's Excess Issue featuring Prada lace on its iconoclastic covers is out this September.



Only realized recently that the main pattern the collection uses is paisley.



Of all the patterns usually used for lace, I think this is the most masculine.



It gives designers and fabric manufacturers license to employ thicker embroidery for outlines. Flower appliques with the same fabric do not seem amiss. The webbing appears almost like pentagons.



The embroidery is as prominent as the lace. This fusion allows the fabric to be transposed from its traditions.



Surprisingly, the lace that Yohji Yamamoto used for his Spring 2009 collection was finer than Prada's.

Strong, revitalized lace for women and delicate fabric for men: the same medium to show female strength and male vulnerability.

I wonder how we'll see Yamamoto's lace in editorials.



These are two images from "New Big Prinz", an editorial from Arena Homme Plus #25: Post Pop, 2006.



Strangely, this type of finery lends an additional shadow to masculinity.



Now Givenchy. What I noticed more than the leather was the sheer fabrics, printed lace (or is it embroidered), the lace shirts, and the tattoos.





The rendering of lace in fuchsia, the hue of next season, seems to be another reversal: taking the fabric out of context to serve another purpose.

Admittedly, it looks good with cream.



Monochromatic statements aside, the collection presents a keen juxtaposition: tattoos under lace. As if to allay worries and assert that it is still a man under the fine weaving. But both are quite similar, though apparently opposite.



Both are forms of writing: one delicate and the other garish. Both are worn: one indelible on bare skin and the other a naked layer.



Can we all don both, just one, neither? Whichever, it depends how comfortable we are in our own skin.

Photos from The Fashion Spot, The Sartorialist, Face Hunter, and men.style.com