Showing posts with label Dries Van Noten. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dries Van Noten. Show all posts

FT How to Spend It: White rider




Apologies for the dodgy quality of images; have time enough to take photos and not scan. Besides, don't you think that the semi-sepia quality the light gives this editorial enhances period feel? I don't know why, but I get the vibe of the depressing 30s. Is it the bikes?


Theo wears embroidered evening Dylan jacket by Gucci; jeans by Kilgour; t-shirt (just seen) by Homino Emerito by Mango; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten; leather belt and leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Madeleine wears linen Metador Bolero with ruffles on the back and silk Cuff trousers, both by Phillip Lim; silk top by Roberto Cavalli; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel; leather brogues by Church's

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson, Styling by Damian Foxe




Extremes have always appealed to me: from all black to all white, even all beige and gray. There's just an unavoidably dashing air to the neutral monochrome.


Wiktor (left) wears Jacquard cotton Dylan jacket, Jacquard cotton Havana trousers, and white leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle: all by Gucci; cotton shirt by Thomas Pink; leather snake-effect ankle boots by Paul Smith. Hampus wears Jacquard cotton evening Dylan jacket and Jacquard evening Havana trousers, both by Gucci; leather loafers by J by J Jasper Conran from Debenhams




And did I mention how I just adore the hairstyles and the hint of androgyny? I wonder if all the models are blondes, or have they been bleached?

Madeleine wears cotton Catrin shirt by Thomas Pink; cotton trousers by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's




The tailoring is of course impeccable. After white pants, I certainly intend to wear white jackets and blazers.


Wiktor (leftmost) wears cashmere blazer from Brioni; jeans by Kilgour; cotton shirt by Versace; leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Hampus (centre) wears cotton and cashmere three-piece suit by Ermenegildo Zegna; knitted silk scarf by Kilgour; leather Nobel brogues by Grenson from Matches. Theo wears cotton and cashmere suit and cotton and silk blend shirt, both by Ermenegildo Zegna; leather shoes by Camper




Can it just be the romance of the Old World, of past eras?

Madeleine wears cotton organza blouse with jabot by Gianfranco Ferré; cotton trousers (just seen) by Paul Smith




Or the glamour of previous decades translated for the present one?

Theo wears cotton jacket, cotton trousers, white and navy jersey (just seen), and suede shoes: all by Bottega Veneta; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten





It's amazing how men's shoes like brogues work so well when appropriated by womenswear.

Madeleine wear cotton sweater by John Smedley; silk trousers by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton embroidered cravat by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's




Theo (left) wears silk suit jacket, matching trousers, and silk sweater: all by Dolce & Gabbana. Wiktor wears silk suit jacket and silk suit trousers, both by Dolce & Gabbana; silk and cotton Joery sweater by Dries Van Noten; leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle by Gucci




Silk, jacquard, jersey, cashmere, leather, mohair, hemp, satin, suede: they're all here in one wonderful mix. How can you not love the power of monochrome to bring them all together?


Hampus (far left) wears mohair and wool jacket and cashmere waistcoat, both by Kilgour; ribbed cotton long-sleeve t-shirt and hemp trousers, both by Ann Demeulemeester; leather shoes by Giorgio Armani. Madeleine wears viscose vest by Burberry; satin trousers by Chanel; silks carf (around hips) by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's. Wiktor wears cotton jacket, hemp waistcoat, and cotton trousers: all by Ann Demeulemeester; cotton sweater by John Smedley; leather and suede trainers by Tim Little




Hampus wears cotton suit by Emporio Armani; cotton-mix Jartha cardigan by Dries Van Noten; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel




Only thing is, of course, I don't think you can ride your bike on any street wearing these outifts if you want to keep your single-colored ensemble until you get home.


Madeleine wears silk shantung waistcoat by Stella McCartney; silk crepe trousers by Maria Grachvogel; silk scarf scarf by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's

Dries Van Noten gets into the details



With a few exceptions, I am rarely compelled to post complete collections from designer shows. I almost missed this one, actually, if it weren't for the detail shots of the pieces.



Details are the essence of men's dressing. Like these white collars (what are they called? a variation on the Chesterfield?), which look like felt and, with the black suit and coat, remind me of pigeons (I don't know why).



Up close, the herringbone pattern goes well with these stripes.



Just look at the matted sheen of this fabric and the way it mixes with the pants, the shoes, and the crocodile pochette. What technology can do to enhance classics.

Like in the first outfit, the white collar suggests the stiff, high collars of military officials, especially given the large military bags. There is the feeling of both discipline and benevolence. Oskar Schindler anyone?



The same goes for this vest, also in herringbone. But the glasses! Surely they give away the tender sensibilities injected into the collection.



The buckle of this belt looks rusted. It's probably not, but I think it's a good suggestion. (Is that a hood I see?)







Beautiful layer of collars.



The way this trench falls makes it look like a robe.











Is that a safety pin that's fastening this suit? Come to think of it, the herringbone vest above is done in a similar way, and so are other pieces.







This is the first time I've seen the bird's-eye weave.



Amazing how it can be mesmerizing for a trench, sweater, and scarf.





And for this blazer, which has something evening, men's club, and country about it.



If the first vest above makes its wearer look like a tailor, this one, with almost invisible front pockets and a loose collar, belongs to a skilled craftsman, apprentice, or even student.















Truly, much is hidden in the details. What is there not to love in this almost imperceptible argyle?





And these monochrome combinations!







(Though I'm not that sure about this ribbon.)












Many, many surprises upon closer inspection.





Sure beats these seemingly flat pictures.