Showing posts with label Kilgour. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Kilgour. Show all posts

FT How to Spend It: White rider




Apologies for the dodgy quality of images; have time enough to take photos and not scan. Besides, don't you think that the semi-sepia quality the light gives this editorial enhances period feel? I don't know why, but I get the vibe of the depressing 30s. Is it the bikes?


Theo wears embroidered evening Dylan jacket by Gucci; jeans by Kilgour; t-shirt (just seen) by Homino Emerito by Mango; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten; leather belt and leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Madeleine wears linen Metador Bolero with ruffles on the back and silk Cuff trousers, both by Phillip Lim; silk top by Roberto Cavalli; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel; leather brogues by Church's

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson, Styling by Damian Foxe




Extremes have always appealed to me: from all black to all white, even all beige and gray. There's just an unavoidably dashing air to the neutral monochrome.


Wiktor (left) wears Jacquard cotton Dylan jacket, Jacquard cotton Havana trousers, and white leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle: all by Gucci; cotton shirt by Thomas Pink; leather snake-effect ankle boots by Paul Smith. Hampus wears Jacquard cotton evening Dylan jacket and Jacquard evening Havana trousers, both by Gucci; leather loafers by J by J Jasper Conran from Debenhams




And did I mention how I just adore the hairstyles and the hint of androgyny? I wonder if all the models are blondes, or have they been bleached?

Madeleine wears cotton Catrin shirt by Thomas Pink; cotton trousers by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's




The tailoring is of course impeccable. After white pants, I certainly intend to wear white jackets and blazers.


Wiktor (leftmost) wears cashmere blazer from Brioni; jeans by Kilgour; cotton shirt by Versace; leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Hampus (centre) wears cotton and cashmere three-piece suit by Ermenegildo Zegna; knitted silk scarf by Kilgour; leather Nobel brogues by Grenson from Matches. Theo wears cotton and cashmere suit and cotton and silk blend shirt, both by Ermenegildo Zegna; leather shoes by Camper




Can it just be the romance of the Old World, of past eras?

Madeleine wears cotton organza blouse with jabot by Gianfranco Ferré; cotton trousers (just seen) by Paul Smith




Or the glamour of previous decades translated for the present one?

Theo wears cotton jacket, cotton trousers, white and navy jersey (just seen), and suede shoes: all by Bottega Veneta; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten





It's amazing how men's shoes like brogues work so well when appropriated by womenswear.

Madeleine wear cotton sweater by John Smedley; silk trousers by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton embroidered cravat by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's




Theo (left) wears silk suit jacket, matching trousers, and silk sweater: all by Dolce & Gabbana. Wiktor wears silk suit jacket and silk suit trousers, both by Dolce & Gabbana; silk and cotton Joery sweater by Dries Van Noten; leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle by Gucci




Silk, jacquard, jersey, cashmere, leather, mohair, hemp, satin, suede: they're all here in one wonderful mix. How can you not love the power of monochrome to bring them all together?


Hampus (far left) wears mohair and wool jacket and cashmere waistcoat, both by Kilgour; ribbed cotton long-sleeve t-shirt and hemp trousers, both by Ann Demeulemeester; leather shoes by Giorgio Armani. Madeleine wears viscose vest by Burberry; satin trousers by Chanel; silks carf (around hips) by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's. Wiktor wears cotton jacket, hemp waistcoat, and cotton trousers: all by Ann Demeulemeester; cotton sweater by John Smedley; leather and suede trainers by Tim Little




Hampus wears cotton suit by Emporio Armani; cotton-mix Jartha cardigan by Dries Van Noten; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel




Only thing is, of course, I don't think you can ride your bike on any street wearing these outifts if you want to keep your single-colored ensemble until you get home.


Madeleine wears silk shantung waistcoat by Stella McCartney; silk crepe trousers by Maria Grachvogel; silk scarf scarf by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's

Thom Browne on GQ Style: Vertigo




Thom Browne: I was inspired by the old Brooks Brothers jackets my grandfather and father used to wear, and by old movies from the 1950s and 1960s. But it was more about capturing the essence of things rather than copying how they were actually put together.



Though this editorial may have nothing to do with the 1950s Alfred Hitchcock movie with the same title, they are set in the same decade.

Tuxedo suits, dinner shirts, silk bow ties: all Thom Browne

'Vertigo', GQ Style 8 Spring-Summer 2009
By Phil Poynter, Styled by David Bradshaw







Could vertigo in this context mean a return or fall back to the past?

Ben wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers; pocket square, from a selection, Thom Browne






Perhaps not.

Instead, this editorial seems to attempt a depiction of the "Thom Browne man" (wearing, of course, Thom Browne and Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers) as contrasted against other "types" of men who not only identify with other labels but look more suited for them.

Rob wears cream suit, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers; pocket square, from a selection, Thom Browne






Clockwise from far left: Rob wears cream jacket, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers. Brandon wears cream jacket, Neil Barrett; shirt, tie, trousers: all Louis Vuitton. Blake wears cream jacket, shirt, tie, trousers: all Richard James. Ben wears cream jacket (part of suit), shirt, tie, trousers: all Dolce & Gabbana. Sean wears off-white jacket, shirt, tie: all Kilgour. All pocket squares, from a selection, Thom Browne



It depicts the old boys' club, where, even if the Thom Browne man looks relatively unititiated, he is primed to lead the pack.


Blake wears chalkstripe suit, shirt: both Kilgour; tie, Thomas Pink; Grand Carrera calibre 17rs watch, Tag Heuer. Ben wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Ralph Lauren Purple Label; shoes, Barker Black; Grand Carrera calibre 8rs watch, Tag Heuer; pen, Dunhill. Sean wears three-piece pinstripe suit, shirt: both Valentino; tie, Prada; shoes, Kurt Geiger. Rob wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Black Fleece by Brooks Brothers; shoes, Brooks Brothers; Santos Dumont watch, Cartier. Brandon wears pinstripe suit, shirt, tie: all Billy Reid. All pocket squares, from a selection, Thom Browne; all socks, Falke









Now this scene is unnerving. Why is there only a single item in his briefcase, and a newspaper of all things?

Cream suit, Black Fleecce by Brooks Brothers; attache case, Thom Browne; Grand Carrera 17rs watch, Tag Heuer




Is there an underlying story in this fashion piece - perhaps a moment of uncertainty before the maturing of an influential identity?



Brandon wears suit, tie, shoes: all Dior Homme. Ben wears suit, shirt, tie: all Dunhill; shoes, Barker Black. Sean wears suit, shirt, tie: all Calvin Klein Collection; shoes, Kurt Geiger. Rob wears suit, shirt, tie, pocket square, from a selection: all Thom Browne. Blake wears jacket, trousers, shirt, tie, shoes: all Emporio Armani