Showing posts with label Hermes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hermes. Show all posts

Hermes' canary in the coal mine



The Fall 2007 trend is back (done best by Etro), but this time unexpectedly pursued by conservative luxury leather goods house Hermes in its Fall 2009 collection.



Sure, this is not the first time it has presented bright and unexpected colors, like blue in Spring 2009 and aqua in Fall 2007, plus some instances of red and non-muted green, but to bring out canary yellow in a significant number of pieces is no different from sending the proverbial yellow bird to test the safety of a mining shaft.

No other designer has produced as much of the color.



Except in few cases, like in this cardigan, canary yellow is done best as a solid color - as in the coat, sweaters, turtleneck, and pants. It attracts attention like a taxi cab. Or these birds.



I previously shied away from the color, as I found it too loud for me to go unnoticed. I thought that, as in the way these outfits have been styled, canary yellow can only go with equally solid black, white, beige, and gray.



But the plumage of these birds show that the color is best rendered with a muddy mix of gradations of these four complements.

I would even go as far as to suggest that technically enhanced combinations be done: like a gray paisley pattern partially printed or embroidered onto canary yellow fabric.



This way, the hue can be subdued and the result can be mixed and matched with more pieces. With gold and/or silver, what do you think?

FT How to Spend It: The Merchant Prints

The Merchant Prints 01
Jacquard and tapestry jacket, silk and wool scarf, and knitted silk cardigan: all by Gucci; trousers, Lanvin

Though I am all for wearing prints and even floral in fall and winter, one must admit they only bloom on spring. Tapestry! Now that has yet to enter my menswear vocabulary; the pattern on the jacket reminds me of Latin American motifs.


The Merchant Prints 02
Cotton Pourpe Gladiola jacket, matching trousers, cotton jersey t-shirt, and calf leather Pourpe belt: all by Bottega Venetta; hand-embroidered cashmere scarf, Baba Art Emporium

Quite different to see these Bottega Veneta prints under the sun.


The Merchant Prints 03
Cotton shirt and painted felt trilby: both by Alexander McQueen; silk scarf, Baba Art Emporium

This Alexander McQueen shirt also takes on a totally different context worn casually and with a scarf.


The Merchant Prints 04
Cotton reindeer-print shirt, Dunhill; cashmere scarf and jodhpur trousers, Baba Art Emporium; straw hat, Paul Smith


The Merchant Prints 05
Crumpled silk jacket, matching cotton t-shirt, flocked cotton trousers: all by Emporio Armani; leather and macrame sandals, Lanvin

I want the silk jacket, but the flocked trousers look exquisite — especially since the design is not always obvious.


The Merchant Prints 06
Silk twill shirt, silk twill Carré scarf, woven cotton and leather Acores belt, and leather Syphnos sandals: all by Hermès; cotton shorts, Emporio Armani; antique loom-made throw, Baba Art Emporium

Will you wear a throw as a scarf?


The Merchant Prints 07
Cotton shirt, cotton string vest, and paper hat: all by Paul Smith; wool trousers, Dunhill; distressed leather boots, Alexander McQueen

I like the silhouette, even if it is old and a bit tired. This picture makes it worth reminiscing about.

Photographs, Yval Hen, Styling Damian Foxe
FT How to Spend It

FT How to Spend It: The Spirit of Christmas Past

The Spirit of Christmas Past 01


If you must ask, the answer is no, I haven't watched the 3-D Jim Carrey movie based on Charles Dickens's story. What I have done is start to actually feel the season — no matter how big a Scrooge I could be.


Calle (left) wears asymmetric wool coat and grain de poudre trousers: both by Dior Homme; cotton shirt, Ann Demeulemeester; leather ankle boots, Nicole Farhi; round black acetate spectacle frames (copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company.


Interesting how this editorial from How to Spend It transports Dickens to the present era of of British cool and experimentation. Apologies though for not being able to scan the entire pictures (esp the shoes!) since the format of the magazine is quite huge. (Visit howtospendit.com for the interactive experience.)


Aeneas (right) wear cashmere coat, Z Zegna; stretch wool flannel jacket, silk cotton shirt, cotton piqué jersey trousers, and leather army boots: all by Kris Van Assche; silver and black Algha round eye spectacle frames, made to measure from The Eye Company

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson
Styling by Damian Foxe



The Spirit of Christmas Past 02


Don't you just love the glasses?


Christian (right) wears flannel blazer, Bottega Veneta; tweed waistcoat and leather ankle boots: both by Nicole Farhi; cotton button-front long-sleeved t-shirt, John Varvatos from Matches; wool trousers, Dior Homme; silk flower pin, Lanvin; black pearl necklace, Tawny Phillips; Anglo-American c1980 vintage round tortoiseshell spectacle frames copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company

Mattias (left) wears wool doeskin cape, wool doeskin jacket with velvet collar, matching pleated trousers, cotton poplin smock shirt: all by Burberry Prorsum; leather boots, Z Zegna; black acetate spectacle frames (copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company


The Spirit of Christmas Past 03


Honestly, I never imagined pieces by Miharayasuhiro to be included in such a theme, but it works.


Mattias (right) wears wool and silk morning coat, Stowers Bespoke; wool jacket and matching trousers with metal detail: both by Gucci; cotton dress shirt, Alexander McQueen; silk bow tie, Lanvin; leather boots, Miharayasuhiro; Châtelaine Game reclaimed metal chain accessory with vintage pieces, Maria Zureta; silver and black Algha round eye spectacle frames, made to measure from The Eye Company

Calle (left) wears cashmere overcoat, Dunhill; wool frock coat, cotton/silk short, and leather waistcoat: all by Number (N)ine; cotton/rayon trousers Ann Demeulemeester; leather boots, Yves Saint Laurent; vintage gold filled round c1930 spectacle frames, The Eye Company


The Spirit of Christmas Past 04



Christian wears wool tweed overcoat and matching wool-mix trousers: both by Prada; cotton dress shirt, Brioni; wool sleeveless cardigan and leather boots: both by Yves Saint Laurent; black acetate round spectacle frames (copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company


The Spirit of Christmas Past 05


Miharayasuhiro again, with his studded shoes (notice the Prada equivalent was eschewed).


Aenas (left) wears cotton and silk jacket, cotton cardigan, and cotton trousers: all by Lanvin; cotton poplin smock shirt, Burberry Prorsum; studded leather shoes, Miharayasuhiro; silver and black Algha round eye spectacle frames, made to measure from The Eye Company

Christian (center) wears wool jacket with embroidered collar and wool trousers: both by Ann Demeulemeester; wool cardigan waistcoat, Miharayasuhiro; silk scarf, Nicole Farhi; leather and ponyskin boots, Ann Demeulemeester; black round acetate frames (copy from 1920s original), The Eye Company; wood and silver cane, Alexander McQueen

Mattias (right) wears cashmere coat, cotton shirt, and cashmere tweed trousers: all by Z Zegna; leather ankle boots, Nicole Farhi; black round acetate spectacle frames (copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company


The Spirit of Christmas Past 06


I love the idea of reclaimed objects, much in the spirit of Maison Martin Margiela.


Aeneas wears wool and cashmere ID jacket, Coreliani; cotton/wool waistcoat, Paul Smith; cotton linen smock shirt and wool tweed trousers: both by Burberry Prorsum; reclaimed metal chain necklace with antique watch faces, Maria Zureta; vintage c1930 gold filled round spectacle frames, The Eye Company


The Spirit of Christmas Past 07


Aeneas (left) wears wool caped jacket, waxed Jacquard trousers, silk waistcoat, and cotton dress shirt: all by Alexander McQueen; wool hat, Ann Demeulemeester; leather ankle boots, Nicole Farhi; silver and black Algha round eye spectacle frames, made to measure from The Eye Company

Christian (right) wears wool frock coat, wool waistcoat, and wool trousers (part of a suit): all by Paul Smith; cotton dress shirt, Dunhill; felt hat, John Varvatos from Matches; black round acetate spectacle frames (copy of 1920s original), The Eye Company; leather boots, Yves Saint Laurent; wood and silver cane, Alexander McQueen


The Spirit of Christmas Past 08


This image is probably the most modern, thanks to the incredible jacket.


Calle wears cashmere jacket, Hermès; tweed cashmere turtleneck sweater, Bottega Veneta; wool-mix trousers, Prada; leather boots, Yves Saint Laurent; 14ct pince-nez c1900 spectacle frames, The Eye Company; wood and silver cane, Alexander McQueen

details, fashion week


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