FT How to Spend It: White rider

Apologies for the dodgy quality of images; have time enough to take photos and not scan. Besides, don't you think that the semi-sepia quality the light gives this editorial enhances period feel? I don't know why, but I get the vibe of the depressing 30s. Is it the bikes?


Theo wears embroidered evening Dylan jacket by Gucci; jeans by Kilgour; t-shirt (just seen) by Homino Emerito by Mango; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten; leather belt and leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Madeleine wears linen Metador Bolero with ruffles on the back and silk Cuff trousers, both by Phillip Lim; silk top by Roberto Cavalli; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel; leather brogues by Church's

Photographs by Carl Bengtsson, Styling by Damian Foxe

Extremes have always appealed to me: from all black to all white, even all beige and gray. There's just an unavoidably dashing air to the neutral monochrome.


Wiktor (left) wears Jacquard cotton Dylan jacket, Jacquard cotton Havana trousers, and white leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle: all by Gucci; cotton shirt by Thomas Pink; leather snake-effect ankle boots by Paul Smith. Hampus wears Jacquard cotton evening Dylan jacket and Jacquard evening Havana trousers, both by Gucci; leather loafers by J by J Jasper Conran from Debenhams

And did I mention how I just adore the hairstyles and the hint of androgyny? I wonder if all the models are blondes, or have they been bleached?

Madeleine wears cotton Catrin shirt by Thomas Pink; cotton trousers by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

The tailoring is of course impeccable. After white pants, I certainly intend to wear white jackets and blazers.


Wiktor (leftmost) wears cashmere blazer from Brioni; jeans by Kilgour; cotton shirt by Versace; leather shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Hampus (centre) wears cotton and cashmere three-piece suit by Ermenegildo Zegna; knitted silk scarf by Kilgour; leather Nobel brogues by Grenson from Matches. Theo wears cotton and cashmere suit and cotton and silk blend shirt, both by Ermenegildo Zegna; leather shoes by Camper

Can it just be the romance of the Old World, of past eras?

Madeleine wears cotton organza blouse with jabot by Gianfranco Ferré; cotton trousers (just seen) by Paul Smith

Or the glamour of previous decades translated for the present one?

Theo wears cotton jacket, cotton trousers, white and navy jersey (just seen), and suede shoes: all by Bottega Veneta; silk Fabio scarf by Dries Van Noten

It's amazing how men's shoes like brogues work so well when appropriated by womenswear.

Madeleine wear cotton sweater by John Smedley; silk trousers by Salvatore Ferragamo; cotton embroidered cravat by Paul Smith; leather brogues by Church's

Theo (left) wears silk suit jacket, matching trousers, and silk sweater: all by Dolce & Gabbana. Wiktor wears silk suit jacket and silk suit trousers, both by Dolce & Gabbana; silk and cotton Joery sweater by Dries Van Noten; leather belt with brown occhio di tigre stone buckle by Gucci

Silk, jacquard, jersey, cashmere, leather, mohair, hemp, satin, suede: they're all here in one wonderful mix. How can you not love the power of monochrome to bring them all together?


Hampus (far left) wears mohair and wool jacket and cashmere waistcoat, both by Kilgour; ribbed cotton long-sleeve t-shirt and hemp trousers, both by Ann Demeulemeester; leather shoes by Giorgio Armani. Madeleine wears viscose vest by Burberry; satin trousers by Chanel; silks carf (around hips) by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's. Wiktor wears cotton jacket, hemp waistcoat, and cotton trousers: all by Ann Demeulemeester; cotton sweater by John Smedley; leather and suede trainers by Tim Little

Hampus wears cotton suit by Emporio Armani; cotton-mix Jartha cardigan by Dries Van Noten; chiffon flower jabot by Maria Grachvogel

Only thing is, of course, I don't think you can ride your bike on any street wearing these outifts if you want to keep your single-colored ensemble until you get home.


Madeleine wears silk shantung waistcoat by Stella McCartney; silk crepe trousers by Maria Grachvogel; silk scarf scarf by Dolce & Gabbana; leather brogues by Church's

Bottega Veneta's comforting reassurance

How to begin describing this deliciously soft, chocolate leather jacket?



Designer Tomas Maier wanted to make the attitude of a cardigan - in its comfort and gentleness - the center of his Fall/Winter 2009 collection. This jacket, merged with a button-down knit, is part of the delighful result.



So is this plaid wool coat, which appears deceptively stiff but is quite pliant.



"So we started with the cardigan, which is soft and unassuming but also confident and timeless."

Blazers and jackets (right), with faux layering at the lapels and hems, appear less strict, and the illusion of creased herringbone, houndstooth, and flannel softens the edges of business dressing.



Besides chocolate, the pleasant earth tones employed include mocha, truffle brown, graphite and ash gray, and bone white.



Of course, one can never do without Bottega Veneta's bags, which in this show - compared to Spring's - come more in soft non-braided leather. They can only add to the seduction of the brand's great staple.



Imagine how the hem of this deerskin trench (right) flaps in the wind, or even in the rush of its wearer. The eyes can almost touch its luxurious grain.



Pre-washed fabrics, on the other hand, give pieces that worn, broken-in ease.



The suede material of the mocha colored desert boots and the skirt and tassles of the black loafers serve their reassuring purpose.





It is interesting how the outfits can be paired and flipped into complementary partners for casual and business, boardroom and regional assignment (Where else would a calfskin blouson with cashmere sleeves make sense?).



Creative and technical?





I wonder what material these pants are made from. They offer a wonderful textural contrast against cashmere and wool - topped of, of course, with calfskin and suede.





So which will you be? Workman or aesthete?

Bottega Veneta bag in How to Spend It

With a sporty-preppy outfit, Bottega Veneta's Spring 2009 Intrecciato nappa leather briefcase looks quite removed from how it was styled on the runway. Though I suggested before that it looks better with a more youthful ensemble, I didn't imagine it inside an office.

Oh well, who better to afford its £1,955 price tag than readers of the Financial Times.

GQ Style: Poseidon

The god of the sea rises. He is mortal.


'Poseidon', GQ Style 6 Spring Summer 2008
Photography by Nathaniel Goldberg. Styling by David Bradshaw
Model: Patrick Petitjean at Success

For quite some time now, androgyny has been the new plaything of menswear. Though much of it has drawn inspiration from 80s Japanese designers, a significant force that drives "androgyny" are simply cross-dressers.


Cotton t-shirt, Gap Red; bead necklace, stylist's own

On the other side of the coin is raw masculinity.

Print shirt, print shorts, sandals: all Gucci

So strong that it can be expressed even with shin-length kaftans (of course, not to exclude skirts!).

Silk kaftan, Lanvin; plaited leather cuff, Burberry

But this attribute, I'm afraid, cannot simply be worn or assimilated.

Nylon shorts, Raf Simons; glass bead necklace, Pebble

You simply have it - like igneous, which has no layers - or you don't.

Towelling top, Bottega Veneta; swimming trunks, American Apparel

This kind of appeal is its own skin - evident from a man, whether he has a three-piece suit or just swimming briefs.

Vogue Italia editor Franca Sozzani once stated, on the topic of dressing men and as part of the reason she wanted to take over L'Uomo Vogue: "...we had seen too much of the intimacy of men. Men had been stripped down too much!"

This may be true, and many men may still smart from the embarrassment of such exposure.


T-shirt, top (worn on head): both Rick Owens; paisley swimming briefs, Etro; plaited leather cuff, Burberry

But beauty will always have its own dignity, male or female, no matter who the perceived audience, and no matter how many layers of clothing expose or conceal it.


Hand-dyed kaftan, Tween

Stripping down, covering up: they are part of the motions of the seasons.

Vest, black swimming briefs, printed swimming briefs (worn beneath): all Dolce & Gabbana; top (worn on head), Rick Owens; sandals, Balenciaga; plaited leather cuff, Burberry

Masculinity can stand on its own, stays the same covered with leaves and fruit, or simply bare.


Swimming trunks, American Apparel; goggles (on trunks), from a selection, Thom Browne

Strong, because behind it is identity that bears its own confidence, can do without necklaces and headpieces.

Jersey top, Rick Owens

Or whatever accouterments meant merely to be worn, not grafted like second skin.

Wrestling leotard, from a selection, Calvin Klein; top (worn on head), Rick Owens; leather sandals, Balenciaga; leather cuff, Hugo Boss

Bottega Veneta's spring fever

Before anything, isn't it strange that I'm fretting about the tardiness of my Spring 2010 reviews when it isn't spring yet, not all the labels have their new stuff in stores, and the Fall 2010 reviews I am also scrambling to accomplish won't see rack space until three seasons after? Ok, enough. On to the review...

As promised, here is a "flashback" of the Spring collection, which I find much more stimulating than the Fall 2010 offering. Just look at the first outfit. What's not to like about the tiny teeth marks of the pennyloafers, the gartered hem of the pants, the luxe and lightweight baseball jacket, the belt, and the carryall?




Here is the tie-dyed effect carried over from one season to another. Better used in spring. Would you trust such a huge piece of woven luggage to airport conveyor belts?




By the sheen of the fabrics, one can just imagine how soft they feel on the skin.




The totes look thin and upright enough to carry documents uncreased.




Psychedelic scarves, bags with Frankenstein stitches, and fantastic hair by the one and only Guido Palau.




Bags and shoes are not the only ones aflame in this collection. Didn't expect this type of a bracelet, but it jives with the mood and outfit.




The green I also like. Notice that they have scarves in all sorts of fabrics.




So he just got out of bed, wearing the same hair and clothes, but at least he has a turquoise croc bag to distract your attention.




Can't get enough of this green, the red loafers. The leather and metal cuff is one to covet.




And here come the prints. Floral silhouettes with pencil-fine detailing. Even the zippers go well with the blazer and drawstring pants.




Pajama patterns. Look closely: leaf or bird? Monochrome: even with eye color? (Refer back to the turquoise bag.)




I must say I love the styling of this show — nothing serious, but always spot on. Is that a peaked roundneck?




Matching neon trunks. Fine accessories. Every piece of clothing so soft and lightweight that — when packed for a swim — there's lots of space left in the equally soft woven bags.




Zippered plum trunk at just about the right length. Summer is just around the corner!




Shorts with fine (embroidered?) and Liberty-esque butterflies. Though the necklace is subtler. I like the bag, though for a different use and setting.




First detail shot of the skinny belt with rivets.




The color of Spring 2010. Or was it Fall 2009? Plum and the other shades of violet have been up and about for quite a while. That's why I said give Fall 2010 a rest!

This of course is not to take away anything from this excellent DB with slight shoulder peaks.




I wonder which color Tomas Maier named "fever red". This one just has a mild temperature.




Ah, I suppose this next one stirs the thermometer.




No, the bag is not sick with spots. It's lust-worthy ostrich.




I prefer red.




Now plum takes over your socks.




Butterflies in tow. Great shirt pattern combination. Is the collar in gingham?




Probably. The tie reminds me of Dries Van Noten's ikat.




The fabric bag too. The dye-designed jacket looks as light as a windbreaker.




When red and plum join forces, you get a berry smoothie.




This is the type of shoe-sandal I'd wear every day for comfort. No matter if my friends call them grandad footwear.




Black and plum is glum. Though the bag is more than enough to make anyone happy.




Got to admit a baseball jacket looks good in the color.




The "peak" of the previous roundneck is repeated to accentuate the Vs. I think I prefer Dries Van Noten's ethnic prints over this digitalization.






A silk blouson soft as tissue. (You get my drift.)






The belt looks better in red. Worn askew just like the jagged collar.




Was this model shot? He looks as if he were bleeding. I want to see this red print in shorts. Or why not trunks?




Wouldn't it be cool if the print etchings glowed in the dark? Though of course, that would be another brand.




This combo is impeccable: midnight blue tuxedo jacket, jeans, checks, and a pocket square that looks like a fire tree flower.




This time, violet is too much, too plain for the jacket.




Does better as an accent.