Volume and severity: Jil Sander + Gianfranco Ferré

Pitting pieces from these two collections against each other produces a veritable clash between two expressionistic titans.

Giant coats and knit mufflers confront a supressed waistline and rounded shoulders.

Clearly, these big silhouettes and seemingly unforgiving outfits were made for a new breed of Masters of the Universe.

Though not all ensembles are excessive; some merely impose a sartorial discipline.

Left: Gianfranco Ferré, right: Jil Sander

Between technological innovations in synthetic or mixed fabrics come these seductive jackets.

Herringbone and black-and-white knits serve to tone down grand statements.

So do the cut of these jackets.

With these brave suggestions, one may think fashion is never called to stay within the limits of the social climate.