From 'Dignidad', Numéro Homme, Automne-hiver 2008
Par Matthias Vriens, Réalisation: Timothy Reukauf
Two jackets from Calvin Klein's Fall 2009 collectionGiven the right jacket, each man gains the swagger of a cape.
Showing posts with label Ralph Lauren. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ralph Lauren. Show all posts
Superman and Calvin Klein
From 'Dignidad', Numéro Homme, Automne-hiver 2008
Par Matthias Vriens, Réalisation: Timothy Reukauf
Two jackets from Calvin Klein's Fall 2009 collectionGiven the right jacket, each man gains the swagger of a cape.
Bigger blues
Still adjusting with the new format of the site. Hope you'll bear with me as it will take time for me to replace current photos with bigger versions. Some, like runway reviews, I will have to leave as is. A few backlog posts will also have to appear in old image sizes.
I've been thinking about this for quite some time and thought the space will be good to declutter things, but of course, anything less than satisfactory will also be magnified and be more obvious.
But hey, it will push me to publish at a higher quality. So here goes. Caution: fly away with the wind.
Heather gray linen shirt and charcoal gray sweater with blue stripes: both thrifted; jeans, Havana & Co.; trilby, Zara; plaid silk tie, Polo Ralph Lauren; blue nylon sneakers, Acne by Tretorn; black leather belt (barely seen), Izzue
Of camels and editorials
From Details. CAMEL COATED: Photographs by Thomas Schenk
Suit and shirt by CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION. Tie by MISSONI. Shoes by CHURCH'S.
Camel hair clothing or camel-colored apparel comprise two editorials, respectively, from the August 2008 issue of Details and the Fall/Winter release of Fantastic Man. Notice the difference not only in the styling and photography, but also in the language of the text.
Jacket by TOMMY HILFIGER. Scarf by APC.
Clothing by POLO RALPH LAUREN. Belt by YVES SAINT LAUREN.
Clothing by BOSS SELECTION. Shoes by CHURCH'S.
MISSONI.
ISAAC MIZRAHI.
GIORGIO ARMANI.
Clothing by VALENTINO. Shoes by CHURCH'S.
Styling by Paul Stura, hair by Johnnie Sapong using Aveda Men, makeup by Charlotte Day for See Management.
From Fantastic Man. CAMEL GALORE: The multi-layered allure of a neck-to-toe camel outfit, edited by Jodie Barnes and photographed by Paul Wetherell.
Who knew there were this many shades of camel? There is so much green in the TOM FORD cashmere camel double-breasted coat to almost slip it off the camel chart. Here, it's worn on top of a brown-ish GIORGIO ARMANI herringbone suit jacket, a more oatmeal POLO RALPH LAUREN camel cashmere poloneck and a reddish camel silk scarf by LANVIN, which is tied here as a cravat. Meanwhile the gold in these POLO RALPH LAUREN camel trousers really shines through.
Wow, look at the orange of those JUNYA WATANABE camel cords! They are part of a look that is more modern man than (its) neighbor (on top). The CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION wool coat is treated with plastic and has a narrower lapel, while the classic camel suit-jacket by LANVIN is of a short length. Underneath, the caramel coloured poloneck is by BOSS BLACK, while the gold CARTIER watch is as close to camel as you can get in a timepiece.
Details only succeeds in one outfit: the one with Polo Ralph Lauren denim. In an effort to tone down the camel hair, the other combinations have only become slack and boring. Fantastic Man conquers the fabric with panache.
This is also what I mean when I said that Fantastic Man is more personal. Though the approach is conceptual - hence the color scheme - it welcomes the reader, while the images from Details appear more like shopfront installations that have the potential to assault passersby.
The absence of the model's personality allows room for the reader to project himself into the clothes, and the accompanying text offers usable information, and yes, even insight.
Wow indeed.
Precious, temporary things
I just realized that among my posts, thrift shopping is the most frequent tag. Five years ago, I never even considered buying any pre-owned items, except for furniture and books. Only when I started buying shirts and pants to expand my office wardrobe did I stumble upon the joys of bargain hunting, especially for thrifted shoes and bags. Also by accident, around the same time, did I begin to write for magazines on the side.
Wool trench, thrifted; tee, Polo Ralph Lauren; jeans, Two Percent; thrifted shoes, Clarks; old electronic typewriter case used as briefcase
Thinking about it, I have to admit that fashion has never been an obsession. I didn't grow up starry-eyed watching catwalk shows or gawking at glossies or store windows. Now maybe it's a highly time-consuming indulgence, a self-conscious way of sorting myself out, part of ordering my thoughts at the beginning of each day, and part of my never-ending process of sifting through inspiration from every aspect of life — mostly absent-mindedly, but eventually with the prospect of producing something creative.
Writers and artists of past eras dressed to the part as eccentrics and agitators of society. But in my case, I don't feel compelled to prove anything to anybody but myself. It is a personal challenge to seek to find something new each day — not just a new item, but a new way of looking at and wearing even just a single piece.
White tee and knitted hooded tee: both Bench; jeans, Sisley; open bonnet hat, 5cm
Not very different from discovering a new way of saying something even via the smallest detour from the usual turn of phrase. Initially just for myself, but hopefully, like a verse or a torn page, it can find itself bringing joy or use to somebody else.
First two photos by Patricia Suzara
Space odyssey
Leather, vinyl, glass, and feathers: interesting that a combination of the natural and the man-made can bring about a futuristic vision.
From 'Space Odyssey', Numéro Homme, Automne-hiver 2008-2009
Par Karl Lagerfeld, Réalisation: Serge Girardi
More leather pieces from Dior Homme's Kris Van Assche-designed Fall 2008 collection.
Compared to Hedi Slimane, Kris Van Assche is more interested in MC Hammer than in harem pants.
Van Assche modifies this by bunching up the pleats over the waist.
These trousers are perfect for moon walking.
This post is part of a set in reply to a query by Nihaal Faizal from India on the topic of his sketches and on science fiction
GQ Style: Refresher
I know it's June already and legitimately, Manila is in the rainy season. But summer was so short, and anticipation to wear out my shorts, too long!
'Refresher', GQ Style 6 Spring-Summer 2008
Photographed by Clare Shilland, Styled by David Lamb
Cardigan, shirt, tie: all Dunhill; zip-off shorts, Siv Stoldal; shoes, G-Star
Too much word play, I know, but I can't help it. It's been raining elephants and horses the past few days. Even the sun on this lazy Sunday is unsure, if not untrue.
Jacket and vest: both Paul Smith; trousers, Y-3; shoes, Lanvin; sunglasses, Persol
I know the weather can't please everyone. Sometimes, even I am grateful for the cool—enough reason to bring out some jackets.
Shirt and tie: both Alexander McQueen; trousers, YMC; shoes, Tom Ford
And maybe something like this?
I sure miss the good lighting, the warmness of hues that can't help but lift ones spirits.
Jacket, shirt, tie, trousers: all Thom Browne; sunglasses, from a selection: Prada
Summer come back!
Shirt, Dries Van Noten; tie, Hardy Amies London; trousers, Diesel
I'm not yet done playing.
Jacket and shorts: both Marc by Marc Jacobs; shirt and tie: both Hardy Amies London; socks, Falke; hi-tops, Pierre Hardy
Haven't had enough beach time and simply lying in the shade.
Polo shirt, V-neck jumper, trousers: all Ralph Lauren Purple Label; sunglasses, Persol
But if needs must be, I'll settle even for just an hour each day with no clouds in the sky, with the leaves not weighed down by anything.
Too much gloom is unhealthy!
Top, Giorgio Armani
Dandy does it
Written and styled by Miguel Paolo Celestial
Published in The Philippine Star, 5 September 2008
The devil in menswear lies in hidden sartorial details, hides its head in unobtrusive style statements. From the length of a cuff and the fold of trouser hems to the shoulder peak of jackets and intended shirt creases, there is no exhausting the devices with which to show one’s individuality. There is also the choice of jewelry, shoes, and belts, the types of patterns and prints, shirts, trousers, and headgear.
Having a careful eye for small things does not mean a man is vain or foppish, or even snobbish. All it says is that he knows how to tend to himself, has more or less mastered the things that suit him.
Outift based on this lookbook
Velvet vest from Anthology; navy long-sleeved shirt whit black polka dots, Marc by Marc Jacobs; black pants, Stitch’s; black leather belt with moose buckle, Gucci; black scarf with embroidered and sequinned detail, Vintage Shades from Adora, ; black leather patent shoes, Swear; black suede gloves, Marlboro Classics; and black fedora hat, Philosophy. Shot at Karma vintage interiors store.
Men can be the most incorrigible when it comes to burrowing out of their habits, one of which is the adherence to the notion that for one to stand out, one must first blend in. It seems we can only be slowly nudged out of it, carefully be convinced that there is so much difference between Tom, Dick, and Harry, and they can show it even if all three remain faithful to their beloved pinstripes and khaki.
The key to possessing one’s own personality is to grow into it. For style, there is a continuous progression, where each fashion choice builds to refine personal taste, so that there is nothing awkward or fake about it.
Outfit based on this lookbook
Black and white plaid pants, Diesel; white short-sleeved shirt, cK Calvin Klein; plaid bowtie, Polo Ralph Lauren; Mariche cap, from Anthology; brown leather belt with gold buckle, Brave Beltworks, and black patent leather shoes, Swear, both from Theodore’s; khaki suspenders, Marlboro Classics; red windbreaker, gold vintage watch, and electric bass guitar, stylist’s own. Shot at The Grand Thrift House.
The truly stylish man—let us call him the dandy—is not driven to be different just for its own sake. He knows he is and can’t help but express it. He won’t roll up his pants just because it’s the fad; he wears it as his own discovery. He adapts to what fits him, even if it means bending or totally breaking rules. He traces and retraces trends, goes back and forward. He never refrains himself from the joy of role-play. The dandy moves outside conventions. There is no spilled wine to his experimentation.
There is no pop star residing in him, who yearns for makeovers every season. He stays relevant by listening to himself and how his personality changes.
The dandy, like all men, takes with him things along the way, items or style devices, like souvenirs from adventures he owns because he worked for them, trekked earth and climbed mountain ranges in the journey to self-knowledge.
He has learned to capture through dressing his different moods, the fall of a facial expression, his changing shadows—all imperceptible, yet definitely present.
Outfit based on this lookbook
White lawn blazer with crest, and navy tie with white stars, both Polo Ralph Lauren; gray long-sleeved shirt with white polka dots and purple flecks, Diesel; handmade belts, Old Stud, Kent shoes, F by Friis, torn jeans, Energie, all from Theodore’s; and gold vintage watch, stylist’s own. Shot at Bellini’s Italian restaurant.
Men seem to be such incomprehensible animals, but there are always hints to personality and identity. To the attuned, attire is always telling.
What does a gold vintage automatic watch say? Studded belts and torn jeans? Fabric suspenders with leather belts? Fedoras and metal beads?
Outfit based on this lookbook
Printed polo shirt, Energie from Theodore’s; gray Zakuro jeans with print and meshed fabric detail, Mizra from Theodore’s; aqua colored cap with apache print, Diesel; maroon leather belt, McQ by Alexander McQueen from dotdotdot; gray suede shoes, Opening Ceremony; metal bead necklace, Leathers and Treasures; ethnic metal bracelet, Anthology; and 1960’s Polaroid land camera, Swapmeet Shop. Shot at White Box.
These days, snuff, linen, and lace are no longer necessary to show sophistication and taste. You don’t have to be a baron or hail from royalty. You don’t even have to be Ernest Hemingway or Oscar Wilde, Johnny Depp or Gaspard Ulliel, Fred Astaire or Gene Kelly, not even The Aviator or The Talented Mr. Ripley to show any personality. Sometimes one item is all it takes: a trinket, a souvenir, something that holds a memory or captures your individuality. This and inimitable confidence: the uncanny mix.
Outfit based on this lookbook
Gray denim vest, Goldspun from Theodore’s; gray plaid jodhpurs, Anthology; black leather boots with buckles, Marlboro Classics; black fedora hat and wooden beaded necklace, both from Philosophy; ball wallet chain worn as a necklace, PBD from Theodore’s; and black woven leather belt, Armani Exchange. Shot at Old’s Kool vintage store.
Photos by Darrel Pobre for Design Arts Media Network (DAMN),
Assisted by Ardin Tuga
Hair and makeup by Benjie Angeles for Shu Uemura and Kiehls
Modeled by Carlo Adorador of Raven Models
All shot at Cubao Expo
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)