Raf Simons' pack of cards

Though it's easy to summon our memories of the classic The Invasion of the Body Snatchers to help make sense of these shrugs in knit, neoprene, and other hi-tech fabrics seemingly taking over the sartorially strict suits of Raf Simons' Fall 2009 collection, I would rather focus on their exaggerated silhouettes.

Sometimes the subtext is not at all engaging, and introspection can get way over our heads.



Alice in Wonderland was the first thing that came to mind, and the boxy minions of the Queen of Hearts.



The shrugs look like the armory of soldiers getting ready for an absurd battle, or trial, in the case of Alice who was about to lose her own head.





I just wanted to ask you which way I ought to go.





Well, that depends on where you want to get to.





Oh it really doesn't matter...





Then it really doesn't matter which way you go.



Does this silhouette bring fashion forward? Or is it simply part of a pack of commercial cards?



Perhaps these two-tone coats and suits are more viable, with style that is more ironclad.





They look strong and believable, and beautifully period.





With a toned down silhouette, these suits hold the promise of real direction for fashion.







The color binaries take on subtlety in leather gloves, a camel coat with flannel lapels, and a flannel coat with camel sleeves.





Now these single and double breasted suits and coats are more like it.





An unintrusive shrug.



No sharing?





Though I really still don't understand the armory. A black and white Dick Tracy yes, but not an Iron Man suit that can be assembled.

Superman and Calvin Klein

Jean, Pepe jeans; sneakers, Converse; bandana, Ralph Lauren
From 'Dignidad', Numéro Homme, Automne-hiver 2008
Par Matthias Vriens, Réalisation: Timothy Reukauf


Two jackets from Calvin Klein's Fall 2009 collection


Given the right jacket, each man gains the swagger of a cape.

Thom Browne: Fall 2006 - Fall 2007

So at the very moment before I post my review of Thom Browne's Fall 2009 collection (I know it's virtually just days before the Spring 2010 shows), here's a quick scan of some of his previous collections.

Was planning to write something on Fall 2006-Spring 2009 in one go, but alas, we will have to settle with two parts. These are more in pictures I hope, since I've already rambled about Thom Browne in a previous entry.


Fall 2006

The handsome man on the left is Jules Grafstrom of Sweden, a men's figure skating champion.

Far from serving warm drinks on the skating rink, these models drop maître d' jackets and jodhpurs for trenches over shorts.

No acrobatics on the frozen runway, but no one's to say there is a lack in sartorial performance.

Spring 2007

Is Thom Browne for the man who refuses to grow up? Who quit school to escape studies, but not its antics?

Okay, so this may be a stretch. But isn't there something mischievous and devlilish about ostrich down shorts?

Don't expect any principal to ever come out alive from a room where Pugsley and Morticia have already been in.

Who would have guessed Pugsley would grow up as a dandy? Not that anything about the Addams can ever come as a suprise.


Fall 2007

Perhaps Thom Browne dreamt about this collection, which looks like a gift from the king of fantasy and ideas, Morpheus, also known as the Sandman.

The cut and fabric of the jackets make them look like something else: conjured from beyond any fashion reference.

The stripes, patterns, and patches could have come straight from a man's boyhood.

But in this case, there are no scraped knees since socks go above them.

The scarves are soft as blankets. The hoods of coats come from magic cloaks.

Angst is sweetest in any boy's adolescence.

So many hiding places that we invent.

So many blood roses bold and wilted.