Junya Watanabe turned inside out

For Spring 2009, Watanabe offered gingham coats that, when reversed, became jackets with attached waistcoats.

This fall, he presents the same kind of double utility, again working with his collaborators: Brooks Brothers, Baracuta, Levi's, and Gloverall.



As expected, many have pointed out the economic value of such duality during the recession.



But it appears that the designer has had other things in mind.



No hunting, no fishing, no firearms, without written permission, reads the invitation to his show.



Turned inside out, his coats are suddenly equipped with pockets and hunting patches.



Simple check and pinstripe combinations are transformed by quilted patches and multi-color panels.



As last spring, the shoes provide good accents.



All-weather materials are combined with fall/winter fabric.



Who can imagine that a metallic zip-up can turn into a button-down jacket with nifty shoulder detailing?



Quite amazing how the traditionally thick puffer can be flipped and compressed by a vest.

Notice the quilted patches on the pants. No argument there: they are definitely better than what Armani and Dolce & Gabbana have been bickering about.



Or how a coat with delicious pockets contain a puffer vest.



Watanabe also offers the detachable option with these beautifully structured thin puffer separates. The colors of this piece are just amazing: the red in the right sheen, the orange hems and pockets with curving flaps, and of course, the brown suede (?) detailing. If it weren’t for the weather, I find no reason to hide this masterpiece.



The red and black plaid brings everything together.



Genius, the way quilted patches camouflage the pockets. Again the plaid.



A good thing deserves a double encore.



Even in more somber hues and in pinstripes, the matching of these three textures creates something new for the classics.



Harrington or vest, it’s the color that passes the test.





Literal army camouflage. Utility pockets for another great shade of red.



Any time for bronze puffers, as long as they rough it with this nature palette. And innovative pockets!



Now these have got to be the pièce(s) de résistance of the collection: magnificently quilted puffers with leather (?) pockets. And in chocolate-tinged bronze, no less!

Junya Watanabe for spring

I have never been one for red shoes, much less red brogues, but seeing them here worn with the right jeans and styling accents, they may just make their way into my wardrobe.

Clothing by Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons MAN. Shoes by Tricker's for Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons MAN



They can actually be quite gritty.

Blazer, jacket, and jeans by Gucci. T-shirt by Fred Perry. Shoes by Tricker's for Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons MAN



Even if they turn you off seeing them separately. Just be sure not to wear them with anything yellow.



The brogues Junya Watanabe had for his 2009 Spring/Summer show are more understated.



Who needs red when you have reversible gingham jackets?



Then again, one can't have enough of the color when it comes as a jacket that can double as a shirt.

Colloborations for the show: Brooks Brothers, Levi's, Lacoste, Tricker's, and Baracuta

Photos from menstyle.com and High Snobiety

Of camels and editorials

From Details. CAMEL COATED: Photographs by Thomas Schenk

Suit and shirt by CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION. Tie by MISSONI. Shoes by CHURCH'S.

Camel hair clothing or camel-colored apparel comprise two editorials, respectively, from the August 2008 issue of Details and the Fall/Winter release of Fantastic Man. Notice the difference not only in the styling and photography, but also in the language of the text.



Jacket by TOMMY HILFIGER. Scarf by APC.



Clothing by POLO RALPH LAUREN. Belt by YVES SAINT LAUREN.



Clothing by BOSS SELECTION. Shoes by CHURCH'S.



MISSONI.



ISAAC MIZRAHI.



GIORGIO ARMANI.



Clothing by VALENTINO. Shoes by CHURCH'S.

Styling by Paul Stura, hair by Johnnie Sapong using Aveda Men, makeup by Charlotte Day for See Management.



From Fantastic Man. CAMEL GALORE: The multi-layered allure of a neck-to-toe camel outfit, edited by Jodie Barnes and photographed by Paul Wetherell.

Who knew there were this many shades of camel? There is so much green in the TOM FORD cashmere camel double-breasted coat to almost slip it off the camel chart. Here, it's worn on top of a brown-ish GIORGIO ARMANI herringbone suit jacket, a more oatmeal POLO RALPH LAUREN camel cashmere poloneck and a reddish camel silk scarf by LANVIN, which is tied here as a cravat. Meanwhile the gold in these POLO RALPH LAUREN camel trousers really shines through.



Wow, look at the orange of those JUNYA WATANABE camel cords! They are part of a look that is more modern man than (its) neighbor (on top). The CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION wool coat is treated with plastic and has a narrower lapel, while the classic camel suit-jacket by LANVIN is of a short length. Underneath, the caramel coloured poloneck is by BOSS BLACK, while the gold CARTIER watch is as close to camel as you can get in a timepiece.


Details only succeeds in one outfit: the one with Polo Ralph Lauren denim. In an effort to tone down the camel hair, the other combinations have only become slack and boring. Fantastic Man conquers the fabric with panache.

This is also what I mean when I said that Fantastic Man is more personal. Though the approach is conceptual - hence the color scheme - it welcomes the reader, while the images from Details appear more like shopfront installations that have the potential to assault passersby.

The absence of the model's personality allows room for the reader to project himself into the clothes, and the accompanying text offers usable information, and yes, even insight.

Wow indeed.

Blue Lines

(Excellent Male Model)

Sense February 2011
Comme des Garçons-Junya Watanabe Man Spring/Summer 2011
Blue Lines
Model: Tomek Szczukiecki / Photographer: Junji Hata / Stylist: Yoshiyuki Shimazu

Loving the nautical theme.
Have a great weekend!=)