Johnny Depp by Annie Leibovitz

Johnny Depp, New York City, 1994

Some people are photogenic. You see it when you are setting up a portrait with a stand-in. You're having a miserable time and nothing looks right and then the subject walks in and everything is transformed. Nicole Kidman, for one, takes over. There's not a bad way to photograph her. Cate Blanchett is another one. She's always interesting. And Susan Sarandon. Catherine Deneuve. She just becomes Catherine Deneuve. Johnny Depp also has it. (Annie Leibovitz at Work)

Notice also how his belt buckle is drawn to one side. Didn't know anybody did that in 1994.

Bag shoulder strap as belt

I am almost certain this not a belt created for use as such. Did this before and the buckle also had to be adjusted near the clasps.

Of course, I also love the prints in this editorial and the insane hair of this model, but the strap-as-belt appropriation put a smile on my face.

Here is the rest of the editorial. Am not certain about its title.

Men's UNO Magazine Taiwan, March 2008
Photographed by Naomi Yang, Styling by Kang-Wei Hu
Scan from The Fashion Spot

Snake charming

Cold-blooded obsession or necessary evil? They come in PVC, ribbon, fabric, and leather; are braided, appliqued, printed on, engraved, or come with holes or cut-out patterns.

For me belts are ranked after shoes, bags, and jackets, but sometimes they slither ahead of the competition.

The double stranded (or double-looped) braided belt in this picture (taken by Scott Schuman in São Paulo, Brazil) would be a good addition, and would come extra handy this summer.

Black list

All style statements return to fashion's ultimate: black is the only black. In the end, nothing can really replace it.

Shirt, G200; skinny jeans, 5cm; thrifted shoes, Bally; woven belt, vintage; wide belt, Izzue; silk tie, thrifted



The only thing we can do is innovate and give it a fresh kick.

Street photo by Patricia Suzara

My latest fix: Leather filigree

Belt by Brave Beltworks

Flight, fur, and denim jackets, pinstriped blazers, a linen shirt, and more

First I saw it, then looked again, thinking it was ridiculous. Then I remembered December in -15 degree Beijing, wearing a puffer with fur on the hood. I didn't like that jacket that much. I could have worn this instead.




So of course I bought it, thinking of future (hopefully impending) trips. Just think deeply about it. Taste, but more sense: the label caught me off-guard as well.




This took less consideration. Looks like an old bag, used every day for years. Marked by places and turns of events. It weighs heavier though than your typical weekender.




According to Wiki, Avirex was fonded in 1975 to keep on producing traditional World War II-style pilot jackets, among other garments, issued to the then USAAF. I don't know why its website is currently out of commission.




This is what is on the lining. I suppose this is what the soldiers wore on their backs while they had folded pin-ups in their pockets. I wonder if the other members of the Allied Forces were as cheerful.




A closer look at the tag. 1978.




Now this part made me think twice if the jacket was genuine. Why Italy? And how did it reach Japan? (The thrift store I bought it in mostly had goods from Japan.)

Must admit the other tag contained something new for me. I suppose the jacket I got never went to the dry cleaners. Note that "old leather" is trademarked. Another cause for doubt.




There are parts where the leather is cracked and worn, but that didn't stop me. Another detail of note: the zipper with its leather pull-handle that matched the brand tag.




Now this picture doesn't do justice to this sheer pinstriped blazer for spring. Promise to show you in a future cameo. I love the double pinstripe with a very subtle cross-hatch.




But this is what really got me ecstatic (and I'm rarely ecstatic about anything) about this blazer: the double back vents and the flap that reminds me of doors for dogs in kitchens.

Can't wait to wear this blazer, which is perfect for summer. A dream actually for the coming seasonal furnace.




This is a heavier blazer, which perhaps should be confined to the office or during summer nights. It's in black and its"pinstripes" are actually white, red, and green dots.




Now, as with the fur and flight jackets, I've also never had a denim jacket before. Guess I was waiting for the right design, fit, and fabric. I never expected to find something I quite liked in a flea market.

What drew me to this were the vertical pleats beside the placket, together with the horizontal stitching. Also the the diagonal at the pocket. Seemingly very minor things that caught my eye.




I like the fact that the jacket is adjustable. Given that it already fits, the back buttons make good details.




A forest green wool tie (rightmost), a silk tie with a nice pattern, and a cord, which I plan on using as a belt.




Also found this beautiful obi (kimono not included). Originally thought of using it as fabric for pouches for my necklaces, but am still thinking about it since cutting up the fabric will be a shame.




Winding down, here is a linen shirt in a shade of chestnut or terra cotta, with mother of pearl buttons. Another find for summer.




And lastly, a cream-colored polo shirt which is part-shiny and part-sheer. Just the way I like it.

Palmer and Sons belt, cuffs and laptop bag

I guess I am still not over the beautifully rugged leather articles by Palmer and Sons. Here is an update on the goods and what I love from their new offering.




I have seen these fasteners (clasps?) before, but on a much smaller scale, and on necklaces. Recognize them?




At first I am reminded of bracelets from Maison Martin Margiela that increase the scale of small everyday objects, but these cuffs possess none of the (unfortunately) latent pretentiousness of conceptual pieces.

These appear anything but artificial. As if these clasps couldn't have been made for anything else but leather cuffs. They look industrial but at the same time archaic and traditional.

Or simply: pierced tongues!




Apparently, the "clasps" have their own story:

We tend to see nice “things” before we then realise them into designs. With the No 12c Cuff we first saw the small chromed pin; it then took us about 3 months to work out what to do with it. This cuff is simple, and light, works well loose or tight fitting. The lettering is stamped letter by letter with a set of 1950’s metal stamps.

10 oz bridle leather; hand polished Chromed pin; handmade throughout; adjustable, wear two ways with pin under or over




Now this leather sleeve for the 15-inch MacBook Pro, I admit, came as a surprise.




I know I already found a red portfolio and haven't stopped writing about laptop portfolios (one by Kenton Sorenson and several such as those used by the men in Pitti and Milan, but there is still one important thing that they lack.

You guessed it: a strong and sturdy shoulder strap.




Just look at that. How can anyone not wax poetic about such beautiful tan leather.




With hardware usually only seen on mountain climbers.




The veins on the skin and the stitching.

But, and I think this is the first time I'm suggesting this, I think the sleeve/shoulder bag can be improved by adding an option. Why not include a fabric shoulder strap with it, one in a darker shade of brown, just to add a little sophistication. Of course it must, by some feat of engineering, still exert the least possible strain on users' shoulder muscles while still confidently carrying the weight of the laptop. Just a thought.

10 oz  London tan bridle leather, hand-stitched, steelworkers safety clip




I know you spotted that flash of tan on the model's denim, and so did I.




No point really in restricting the use of fantastic hides. This belt is also a standout.




Perfect for raw denim.




Not to mention to add something rustic to your outfit.

10 oz bridle leather, 1.5” wide, solid brass buckle, handmade throughout, solid brass rivets




But if you prefer something other than London tan, Palmer and Sons offers customization with the use of dark brown, jet black, oxblood, Italian cognac, and Havana brown colored leather.




Just think of the possibilities.

A boy and his belts

If by chance you encounter Jan in a crowd, you may not instantly notice him. Mr Gettmann doesn't turn heads because he slayed a dragon and used its scales to layer on his jacket epaulets. Nor did he pluck feathers from a bird for use as a scarf.




There are no stars, no skulls. Nothing distressed or aged. No nylon made to look vintage.




Just a boom box, a monkey, and of course the Union Jack. I wouldn't even go as far as to call his buckles "statements". More like natural rites of passage.




Of course the folded shorts help, and some glasses, but what I like most about Jan's style is that it's quiet, almost self-effacing. Like a small joke that only a few people get — funnier because of the fact.