Showing posts with label runway shows. Show all posts
Showing posts with label runway shows. Show all posts

The army of Rick Owens



Highlanders, blacksmiths, priests and druids, workmen, Norse gods, vagabonds and rebels, savants, pilots and hunters, shaved sasquatches, decommissioned soldiers, cavemen, alien aborigines: I'm sure you can come up with even more characters to fit Rick Owens' Fall 2009 collection.



But no matter how morbid his show may have been, who can resist his leather and beautifully layered jackets?



Shorts or chopped pants over leggings have been seen on many runways this season, but this layering of different materials over pants may just about top all of it.



The detailing of this distressed leather vest demands close attention. Just look at how the strategic stitches and creases create geometric sections. This piece can easily go with a biker in unwashed jeans (though he would be less entertaining or thought-provoking).



When there are no knee-high leather or fur boots, there are these chopped pants. Interesting combination with the hugely-cuffed coat and sheer (one-shoulder?) shirt.

This skinhead and wavy hair combination brings to mind Loki, the Norse god of mischief.



I wonder what the shirt (blouse?) underneath looks like. Is it attached to breeches?



Though this outfit may remind you of a seal, the combination of four (5? 6?) different fabrics actually tones down the use of fur.



What an interesting jacket, with the collar and the diagonal zipper. Now I'm wondering how one should close it.



Again the layering and the cropped pants. There is also something intriguing with the cut of the suit, which looks narrow and almost feminine.



The boots and the belt.



Those two plus the coat (short trench?).



This jacket looks very simple and practical for the season: sufficient license for the headgear.



Fur and animal skin never looked as edgy. This is my personal favorite piece.



I never expected to like Rick Owens, but even if his show and models looked unfriendly and his clothes seemed targetted only to a narrow audience, I am sure some of his pieces can make a killing.

Dries Van Noten gets into the details



With a few exceptions, I am rarely compelled to post complete collections from designer shows. I almost missed this one, actually, if it weren't for the detail shots of the pieces.



Details are the essence of men's dressing. Like these white collars (what are they called? a variation on the Chesterfield?), which look like felt and, with the black suit and coat, remind me of pigeons (I don't know why).



Up close, the herringbone pattern goes well with these stripes.



Just look at the matted sheen of this fabric and the way it mixes with the pants, the shoes, and the crocodile pochette. What technology can do to enhance classics.

Like in the first outfit, the white collar suggests the stiff, high collars of military officials, especially given the large military bags. There is the feeling of both discipline and benevolence. Oskar Schindler anyone?



The same goes for this vest, also in herringbone. But the glasses! Surely they give away the tender sensibilities injected into the collection.



The buckle of this belt looks rusted. It's probably not, but I think it's a good suggestion. (Is that a hood I see?)







Beautiful layer of collars.



The way this trench falls makes it look like a robe.











Is that a safety pin that's fastening this suit? Come to think of it, the herringbone vest above is done in a similar way, and so are other pieces.







This is the first time I've seen the bird's-eye weave.



Amazing how it can be mesmerizing for a trench, sweater, and scarf.





And for this blazer, which has something evening, men's club, and country about it.



If the first vest above makes its wearer look like a tailor, this one, with almost invisible front pockets and a loose collar, belongs to a skilled craftsman, apprentice, or even student.















Truly, much is hidden in the details. What is there not to love in this almost imperceptible argyle?





And these monochrome combinations!







(Though I'm not that sure about this ribbon.)












Many, many surprises upon closer inspection.





Sure beats these seemingly flat pictures.