The club collar by Tim Hamilton

Though Jil Sander also recently showed a red suit with a tieless white shirt, the effect is more severe, less thoughtful.



I prefer to see the club collar less something like a costume, but more a state of mind. A style statement like a pursed lip - without any need for words.



A scarf would be unfortunate, and a tie would have to be carefully chosen. Just see how rendered in plaid, the collar takes the character of a bow tie.



I think the club collar is the anchor for this Fall 2009 collection; the rest are deviations.

SS 09: Tim Hamilton + Robert Geller

Hamilton's shirts with tux bibs and twenties vintage find kinship with Geller's gypsy and prison pants and Eastern European references.



There is a certain coarseness to both collections that is made more raw by hair slicked back.



So far, these two collections from the New York Spring/Summer 2009 shows have made the deepest impressions. The images they have conjured linger longer because of mood and character.



There will always be trends, like stripes which have appeared in many forms on several collections, but mood and character are not as transferrable. Credit the stylist, but I still think the separate pieces (esp. jackets, shirts, blousons, blazers, vests, boots, shorts, and pants) will be able to stand on their own, distinct.

Photos from men.style.com

CFDA nominees: Tim Hamilton + Patrick Ervell + Robert Geller

Tim Hamilton

The three are up for the Swarovski Award for emerging designers. Here they are dressed in their own creations, as styled by Karl Templer and photographed by Craig McDean.

Update: Tim Hamilton bagged the award.

Patrick Ervell

Interesting how one can see a designer's personality by putting them inside their own clothes, just as we have seen Thom Browne and Rick Owens wearing their own work.

Who do you think is dressed best?

Robert Geller

Nominated for Menswear Designer of the Year are Michael Bastian, Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein Collection, and Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders.

Update: It's a tie between Italo Zucchelli and Scott Sternberg.


Picture source: men.style.com