Showing posts with label Miharayasuhiro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Miharayasuhiro. Show all posts

The layers and landscapes of Miharayasuhiro



How long is the journey from idea to product, from inspiration to execution? How does an image change when it crosses from photography to fashion, such that memory becomes a new experience?

Mihara Yasuhiros's Fall 2009 collection, entitled Left and Right, was born from the concept of travel, culling cultural associations from both the objects and roads involved in ancient trade, particularly between the East and the West.



I have decided to juxtapose Yasuhiro's clothes with images of nature and human habitation - from Tibet, the Himalayas, and Everest, to hunting in the woods with snow dogs and huskies, and trailed by wolves - to give them a sense of place and perhaps revive the history behind ideas.

Notice how these two suits in beige and black have a worn-in quality, almost as if their wearers were really on board cross-continental trains and have, at their point of destination, engaged business partners in trade.

The fabrics somehow resemble linen but look so light and thin that for certain synthetics have been blended in. Also observe the lace-ups, which are studded like Miuccia Prada's in her Fall 2009 collection. Yasuhiro's are better though because the studs are scattered and not placed in a geomtrical pattern.



The runway has been carpeted with sand, which, though used for a practical purpose, nevertheless simultaneously conjures images of both desert and glacier.



This three-piece suit (is that a silk scarf underneath the vest?) is all about the enigma of departure and arrival.



A jaded and perhaps coked out modern Prince Hamlet. (The play, after all, is set in wintry Denmark.)



Now this, I don't know how to explain...but the pair of images works. What's underneath looks like a combination of a vest and a Chinese-collared shirt.



Gray and pink plaid dotted with black and white is no different from winter blossoms, with petals falling on ice-caked soil.



The black pieces have a sheen similar to leather or the hair of horses. The vest is interesting, as its turned up collar makes way for the brown scarf, but I am somehow stumped in figuring out how the silk chocolate brown shirt has the effect of providing a second scarf. Maybe it's really just the magnificently thin silk.



Trust me, there is something else in common with this ensemble and the geyser besides the color pink.



What kind of fabric is this, which looks like a cross between paper and wool? Weathered flannel? The ribbon belt adds an interesting effect. Strange, but with the metalware I am reminded of the world of Charles Dickens.





Wonderful jacket and scarves (or is the top one part of the jacket?) This outfit unexpectedly works with the cargo pants. This time the necklace is becoming of a gypsy.



Is this just one or two coats? Why does it billow? Or, like in the next image, does the outer piece have a long cape that is swooped and worn over the shoulder? Any which way they are brilliant. Notice how the wool sweaters have been purposely made threadbare in certain parts?





The front part of this jacket mimics the shape scarves takes when they peek under vests.



Is this coat made of silk? The layering is fantastic. Would have been great to view the yellow backpack.



If dirty snow white can be a color, this would be it. Now if this coat was also made of silk, I wonder how one could keep warm?



This coat looks almost transparent. Everything just goes well with this outift: the colors, the varying textures of the cardigan and its buttons, the cropped jeans, the coat, and the combination of scarves.



Two lessons here: ripping stripes can give them a second life and, worn in layers with different lengths, they can bring consistency to an outfit.



The cardigan and the shirt both look wild - in terms of the cut and the fabrics used.



I'm sure Martha Stewart never thought of that.





Drop-crotch pants in pajama/long johns material. This silky scarf that almost looks like rags in tatters adds edge to bulkier fabrics.



Leave poets alone with their studded bags and drop-crotch pants.



The scarf meets the poncho.



The silk coat can't help but glimmer. Notice the length of the cardigan.



Apparently, this can be worn inside or out.



Three scarves + black flower brooch + drop-crotch pants + floppy hat all in monochrome = an ancestor of Hedi Slimane's Dior Homme. (Or is it just the model?)





This could have been two single-breasted suits sewn together. The layering is amazing. So is the placing of the brooch.



I see two marbled shirts, a tuxedo coat, and a towel-like apron. Mountain folk going baroque?





Would love to see these boots in detail. Also the pattern of the shirt.

What a journey indeed this collection has been.

AnOther Man: Extreme dreams




'Extreme Dreams', AnOther Man Fall 2007
Photography by Mark Segal, Styling by Alister Mackie
Scanned by Ed @ Modelhommes, from The Fashion Spot




Big, wind-swept knits against a vast sandy desert.


Douglas and Nico wear felt caps by Lanvin;
oversized wool jumpers by John Galliano Homme; trousers and shoes by Prada





This could be the moon or an abandoned planet.



Douglas wears silver jumper (worn around neck) and oversized cable knit jumper by Dolce & Gabbana;
chevron print trousers by Burberry Prorsum





Or the dominion of Cain, together with all the banished.


Douglas wears hooded fur coat by Prada; sheerling cropped bodysuit by Kim Jones;
shirt by Burberry Prorsum





Nico wears fur tunic by Prada




Warriors without their adversaries.



Nico wears fur jacket by Fendi; knitted trousers by Miu Miu;
leather gloves by Raf Simons; silver neck plate from Pebble





Douglas wears zipped jumper and oversized jumper by Vivienne Westwood Man;
wool trousers and patent leather shoes by Prada







Predators without their prey.



Nico wears fur lined kimono by John Galliano Homme; silver neck plates from Pebble




Nico wears felt hat by Lanvin; jumper (worn around shoulders) by Prada; knitted bodysuit ny Miharayasuhiro;
leather gloves by Raf Simons; patent leather shoes by Prada





Douglas wears short sleeve jumper; stirruped trousers and degredée shoes by Prada;
smoked quartz crystal necklace from Pebble





This is the moment right before we wake up,
when the light flashes and everything and everyone else disappears.

Sci-fi inspiration




Nihaal, a 14-year-old from India, emailed me three of his sketches, asking me what I thought of them and also requesting for some sources for a new sci-fi collection he was working on. He said he was thinking on the lines of new shapes and silhouettes.


The fastenings of his first drawing remind me of Jean Paul Gaultier's Fall 2009 show, which features these contraptions with trousers and coats.


The hat and sunglasses combination meanwhile brings me back to Hedi Slimane's Dior Homme collection for Spring 2006.

What's interesting, of course, is the combination of these two sources, plus the exaggeratedly baggy pants, which almost look like two skirts. Overall, this outfit seems like a cross between The Matrix and Men in Black - it has that techno edge of a futuristic uniform but but worn by a mercenary MC Hammer.



Getting into the details, I like the fact that there is no collar (inverted? Chinese collar with no partition?). The fastenings or the belts look promising. What exactly ties them? Are those chain buckles? The use of hardware (hooks, studs, etc.) may be a good accent. Is he wearing an armband?



The top looks good because of the contrast. Are those two tanks on top of a shirt? If so, differences in the materials used would have added depth. On the other hand, I'm sure it's interesting if the top came in only one piece - a challenge for construction and detailing (seams, stitch). (More on the trousers below.)




This next sketch intially made me think of a futuristic priest, because of the dangling rosary from what I presume is a vest. The necklace, though it doesn't have a crucifix, amplifies the effect. So does the high, stiff collar. Loose robes have been replaced by strong geometric lines.

But what makes the outfit interesting is the long shirt peeking below the top - very on trend with the men's Fall 2009 collections. The pendant of the necklace I find intriguing. How would a crucifix look if it were rendered geometrically? Or is it the Sacred Heart?

The famous (secular) Lego heart brooch by Dee and Ricky

I would ask Nihaal, though, if he's sure he wants the hem of the trousers cuffed, instead of tapered, simply straight, or pleated as it is - as the traditional cuffing runs astray from the mood of the top. Maybe another type of detailing would be good in place. Repeat the dark material from the cardigan to form the hem?



These jackets and cardigans from Fendi's Spring 2009 collection were the first items I thought of when I saw Nihaal's second outfit. They configure different polygons in a way also found in the art of ancient Latin Amercian Indians.





On the topic of patterns, may I suggest to Nihaal that he consider other possibilities, just in case he gets interested in psychedelic but still futuristic designs. These "lung" shirts from the Spring 2009 collection of Miharayasuhiro are more corporal than spiritual or symbolical. After all, is the heart the only part of the body that's sacred?




If the first two sketches reminded me of a detective and a priest, this third one makes me think of a medical intern. For a future state penitentiary hospital, perhaps? The impression comes from the use of lines resembling an orderly's uniform and the use of barbed wire (?) as outfit accessory.

What I want to concentrate on in this look are the loose, skirt-like trousers, since they have seen a recent resurgence.



Comme des Garçons comes up with a cropped, layered version for its Fall 2009 collection. The suppleness of the fabric allows the layers to move much in the same way as nineteenth century dresses. Nihaal is smart to have paired his trousers with, if I'm not mistaken, a waistcoat, so that the volume of the pants is countered by a slim top silhouette.



For these next two outfits from the same show, Rei Kawakubo lets the men wear actual skirts, which, except for the layers, do not look much different from the cropped trousers. This is so because of the length and the close-fitting cut. As you can see, rendered so, these skirts do not at all look bad on men with thicker calves. (Though I am not so sure about the animal print flats.)



The fall collection was only a sequel to the Spring 2009 pieces of Comme des Garçons, which also featured cropped and loose trousers, together with longer skirts. Notice that cut even higher, the pants - now shorts - look very edgy worn on top of leggings (still popular for Fall 2009). I can imagine helmetted motorcycle men wearing them - in leather, of course!





Another baggy alternative are harem pants. These pieces came from Hedi Slimane's Fall 2007 collection for Dior Homme.





Slimane masterfully shows how this type of trousers can be identified with youthful and rebellious street wear.





Hedi Slimane also made skirts at an earlier date. These images come from his online photo diary. This first picture shows skirts that flounce sharply near the hem.



These last two images (am not certain if they come from the same collection as above) show skaters wearing skirts with closely folded pleats that converge at the waist. They are meant to display the maximum volume possible.

Both kinds of skirts come to me as masculine - due to fabric and construction that allow movement that is not at all foppish.



It is a brave thing for Nihaal to include this gender-bending piece in his sketches, but for his last outfit, there may be too much detail for the trousers to achieve full effect.



With regard to Nihaal's question on sketches, the only thing I can say on the subject is that the simpler the sketch, the better. For me, Yves Saint Laurent's drawings are very effective because each line expresses something - informs on not only the cut of a dress, but also on the possible fabrics that allow such folds and creases. This technique, I'm sure, can also be applied to menswear.


More sci-fi references
Space odyssey
The man who fell to earth
Fetiche
Gareth Pugh: Skin, fur, and scales
Gattaca
Shrug-off: Z Zegna vs Prada
Science nonfiction: Street shapes