Written for West East magazine
Spring 2011 marks the 20th year anniversary of Dolce & Gabbana in menswear. Quite suitably (no pun intended), the boys from the south of Italy have presented a collection that draws from their sartorial roots: on the one hand, sharply cut, classic black suits—reminiscent of what made them famous in boardrooms—and on the other, ripped and tattered jeans. Between these constant motifs, the highly successful label has explored different styles from past eras and appropriated new silhouettes, always in the pursuit of expressing the uniquely suave yet laid-back ethic of the modern Italian male.
For their Spring 2011 show, Dolce & Gabbana also touches on the emerging trends of the season. It has white and cream linen suits, which, together with similarly hued tank tops and drawstring pants, envision leisurely evening strolls on cobblestone and holiday romps on the Mediterranean coast.
Ermenegildo Zegna, which just celebrated 100 years in the industry, also comes out with khaki suits that with closer inspection reveal a brown-and-white micro-check pattern. While Dolce & Gabbana uses rope as belts, Zegna ties pants with leather cords.
A house known for bigger, looser shapes, Gianfranco Ferré releases its own interpretation of the spring staple, reinterpreting its famous lounge-y DBs from the 1980s in linen and silk.
Khaki is all over, in suits and in complete outfits, and with separates in beige, camel, and other colors from Calvin Klein, Etro, Prada, Canali, Salvatore Ferragamo, and Corneliani, among others.
For its own part, Bottega Veneta, while showing all-white and ivory ensembles, expounds on the trend by turning camouflage into ingenious monochromatic patchwork in khaki. The suits, which still bear the brand’s characteristic shoulder peaks, turn out into what can be called “paper bag military”. The label further exploits the army theme with all-fatigue get-ups and notable lightweight green leather jackets and vests.
Thus we come to Spring 2011’s second major trend, as best exemplified by Burberry Prorsum, which is dominated by army green in cable knit sweaters, puffers, coats, pants, trenches, and even canvas totes. Also prominent are military shirts in the color of fatigues, which are done in khaki by Pringle of Scotland.
Burberry, or the house that Christopher Bailey made hip, manages to a lead a minor biker trend. Its take on motorcycle vests and jackets— lightweight and washed, cropped or lengthened as coats—is fresh and youthful. Taking a nod from the first collection of Balmain Men, Bailey pairs the motorcycle tops, and even the mainstay trenches (with leather epaulets), with biker pants. The pairs in leather have full-on kneecaps, while those in softer fabrics have suggestive detailing.
Being spring, it is unavoidable that designers resort to seasonal basics such as sheer and knit clothing. Bottega Veneta, Costume National, and Burberry Prorsum pair translucent round-necks with blazers, with Burberry also utilizing mesh in matching polo shirts and tees with jackets and coats. For sheer and mesh pullovers and cardigans there are Iceberg, John Varvatos, Neil Barrett, Versace, and Z Zegna. Etro, known for its brave and brilliant colors and patterns, keeps it subtle and muted for Spring 2011 as it renders paisley in lace and see-through fabric.
As the cold dissipates, D&G, Ermenegildo Zegna, Giorgio Armani, and Moncler Gamme Bleu welcome summer with checks, gingham, and seersucker. D&G literally spreads out picnic blankets for its sunny motif that finds espadrilles, shorts, and blazers in Hawaiian print.
Colors, of course, blaze bright in Milan. What, after Jil Sander broke the sunset with its show in Pitti Uomo that set psychedelic colors blocks against dusk. Raf Simons marshals pinks, blues, oranges, and greens that bleed into shirts as enormous flowers, make dizzying striped patterns, and dazzle with abstract tees that invoke Gauguin, Cezanne, and Matisse. Soon after, Prada unveils cotton-knit boat-neck sweaters that remind one of Lifesavers. In the form of comic strips, Moschino brings back the fun in prints.
Taken separately, there are three colors that have burned the runways: blue, orange, and surprisingly, fluorescent yellow. Calvin Klein turns from its usual bionic uniforms and molds clothes to The Hulk proportions, with many pieces in sky blue. Prada uses the same hue for its retro suits with jackets cut lower and trousers more loose, while Ferré and Cavalli go more electric. On the softer side of the palette is Iceberg’s shirts and jackets.
Ermenegildo Zegna deftly moves from blazers in baby blue to windbreakers, scarves, and suits in burnt sienna. While Z Zegna takes on a redder orange tint, with its laceups, sweaters, and cardigans, Dsquared2 blushes vermillion with its pants, jackets, and shorts. Almost on its own, solitary impulse, Giorgio Armani shocks with highlighter-yellow footwear, belts, and leather jackets. Its only companion is Salvatore Ferragamo, which has produced electric yellow sandals.
While the main themes of this season—relaxed and stiff—seem at odds with each other, they just serve to show both sides of the firm yet vulnerable nature of the modern Italian man.
Photos from gq.com